Tag Archives: Simplicity 1696

Chino time- the sequel- Simplicity 1696

So I made chinos last year using the Simplicity Amazing Fit pattern Simplicity 1696 out of gaberchino from Minerva. But a new pair was always on the cards.  A beige pair.  Now before I launch, please do not wrinkle your nose up in disgust at my photos after a full day’s wear.  This is showing you the trousers in real life.  How well the fabric withstands a day sitting, driving, and loads more sitting.  I could pretend that this was my intention – show you the trousers in the wild so to speak, but I have a backlog in blog posts needing photos & it seemed the only way to get some blog posts written was to take photos as the opportunity strikes, because photo shoots have just not been happening.  (I think partly the weather has not helped  – my garden is not as private and more people around might catch me ‘at it’ & that takes too much explaining when I’m still relatively new to the road!!  So apologies for the creases & lack of polish….reality strikes.  And before we launch – part two – the winner of the giveaway is also shared at the bottom of this post….

simplicity 1696

I love this pattern, having worn them since, the details were successful, I didn’t miss the fact that the back welts are not topping pockets. And the cut, look and style was just right. However, I always felt as if these trousers would be even better if I made them out of fabric with some stretch. Having enjoyed the wearing of denim with a tiny bit of Lycra content and also stretch sateen ( in my Ultimate trousers) I knew that uber comfort could be achieved.

simplicity 1696

Therefore when I went to visit the Fabric Godmother in real life at one of her open days ( peeps talk about awesome to meet Josie face to face in her natural habitat, surrounded by the most awesome plentiful bolts of fabric!) I was very firmly set on a purchase of more cotton stretch sateen to make some beige chinos, in time for spring.

simplicity 1696

And this is them. The fabric is a lovely pale beige, perfect. It is reasonably light weight in that these are not trousers that I would wear when I need a bit of warmth. These are Spring/ summer chinos.

Need to add another fastener

Need to add another fastener

And making the with the Amazing Fit pattern means that they have the same lovely details …faux welt pockets, nice facings with bias finishes. Did you see the colour of my bias!  The pocket linings are a summer floral with orange flowers…. should have taken pics!

simplicity 1696

Look back to my green chinos for more about the amazing fit pattern and amazing tips I took on board. But once again, I really do like the concept of these amazing fit patterns. They work for me.

simplicity 1696

This time I have made them just a little bigger as well giving ultra casual comfort, kind of boyfriend fit.  They are a bit on the baggy side rather than deploying the lycra content for hugging those curves.

simplicity 1696

This plus the fabric with stretch? Oh my. These trousers have died and gone to heaven!

I wore them at the weekend rolled up – like this …

Except obviously it was both legs rolled up…

Worn with my Liberty shirt

A huge thank you to all you who shared your fabric or pattern first personality-types in the last post.  It was really interesting reading about what hooks us – pattern or fabric (and sometimes we are not consistent – I know that whilst I confess to fabric first, it doesn’t stop me buying patterns that I like the look of – yet never seem to get round to making them)  Keep up the good work I say- go with your urges & enjoy dreaming about what you are tempted by!

And the result of the giveaway to win a copy of the Sew Over It Doris dress- generated by Random.org, it is Parisgrrl- I have contacted you by email.  Thank you to everyone for entering & I am sorry I can’t give you all your very own copy….

It’s Chino time! Simplicity 1696

Hello everyone!

Chino 1

 

 

I feel I have struck Chino gold, but in order to explain why, I need to go back in time to a less positive place. Do you remember when I made *those Burda* trousers (Burda 7017) after being convinced by how awesome Katie and Karen looked in them? The trousers that just did absolutely nothing for me, just looked like someone had taken a bicycle pump & inflated my rear? And my stomach? Not to mention the jodhpur style legs I’d already had to slim down. Well the funny thing is that it was one of those blog posts that I accidentally deleted when I had my laptop problems & was working off my ipad. (I know you don’t believe me, but every cloud as they say …) So therefore I can’t link back to it, nor the very helpful comments, & those that laughed along with me too.

So I am going to show you only one picture of the offending trousers as a baseline. And offer up some hope to other people struggling to find the right fit. After baring my balloon I received so much endorsement to *avoid pleated pants*. I could not ignore the swell of opinion!

 

Burda youth

The blouse is a Colette Violet hack.

I had an old McCalls 9233 in my pattern stash, but I was tempted by the newer “Perfect Fit” Simplicity 1696 pattern. Flat front chino style narrow legs. Was that welt pockets on the back too? (actually they are welts, not pockets).

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chino welts

But good none the less to break up the expanse behind. So after consulting Vicki at Minerva about chino suitable fabric & being led to the selection of Gaberchino I determined that I would add this pattern to my March make for the Minerva Blogging network.

 

chino (2)

 

I have not used any Perfect Fit patterns (but you since know that I have also bought the jacket as an option for my Tweedy hacking jacket). I sat down & read through – what makes this so different? Well there are three different body shapes, & instead of self diagnosing, there are some key measurements to take to determine which shape to go for. In this case, hips and the crotch length. (I would have self diagnosed wrongly btw, it was worth reading the instructions!)

What else do Perfect Fit pants have that other trouser patterns don’t necessarily have? Well, side seams are larger, to allow for better fitting. Also the inner leg seam, at the top has excess in order to play around at fitting time. As you would expect, there is guidance in the instructions for fitting, & combined with “Pants for Real People” I would say this pattern gives you enough grace to mess around with the fit, even if it involves multiple basting/ trying on/ unpicking. So you have a very good chance at getting a good fit.

There are also “Perfect Tips” scattered within the instructions, such as applying bias to the bottom of the cut bottom edge of the zipper to make it smooth, that you can incorporate into your sewing, or not, as you choose.  

Perfect fit

Showing clockwise from left, belt loop extra stitching, neatening corner of waistband facing, extra seam allowance at inside upper leg

OK, so that’s what’s different about Perfect Fit patterns in my humble opinion, based on a solo experience – for what that’s worth!! How about the normal stuff, like, steering through the whole trouser with front fly making process? Well, what do you think? Do they look OK to you?

chino (5)

I found the instructions really easy to follow & enjoyed making them up.

Chino fly

The only irritation I had, following the instructions came with the waistband. It is a four piece with two pieces for the back (like the Thurlows, making it easier to fit) & a right front & left front – all with doubles as facings. The instructions have you finish the lower (waist) edge of the facing before attaching, & finishing with bias binding is an option, which I chose. You then attach the facing to the waistband- some nice corner turning action which I did appreciate, however, I did not like the finish I got by stitching the facing down in the ditch.

Chino Facing

Usually I would fiddle around by pinning in the ditch to make sure my stitching in the ditch follows an even line with my facing – tweaking as necessary in the pinning process. You can see here that the stitching line, governed by the “ditch” does not follow the already bias finished edge uniformly. But that was my only niggle.

Fitting? I compared myself to the finished measurements and shortened the leg length before cutting, and confident with the 1” seam allowances cut the size based on my hip (not my sausage waist). I did baste them to fit.

Chino fitting

Left & middle before, right hand after fit adjustment

And found that I needed the slightest tweak at the waist/ upper hip to get rid of those pesky draw lines. I did not narrow the legs at all, and like how they fit.

Chino (3)

What about the wearing? Well, so far so good. They are really comfy, like ever so nice to wear. They are the kind of trousers that you feel you need in several colours. They really are for me, the perfect chino pattern. Minerva have a lot of different colours in this Gaberchino, which does feel soft & has a nice level of drape.

OK, you see from the photos it creases a bit after being worn, but I kind of expect that in trousers like this (& I did have some major league loafing around on the day that these pics were taken!) I shall be making more, as they clearly show that I do need to avoid pants with pleats!

chino (4)

And photo credits this time, Handmade Jane, who really knew without being asked, how to focus on those all important butt/ crotch close ups!! Thank you so much! – on location in Cirencester.