A big thank you to Lizzy, who was so thoughtful sending me some pretty & totally “me” polka dot fabric after I was unable to catch up with her & come to the epic London blogger meet. I felt it was opportune to whip me up another Chardon skirt with it, loving the look, feel & fit of my red denim skirt. I thought it could be a skirt that could blend into my summer work wardrobe too.
So, the details. The fabric is a border print light weight cotton. Not much to it in terms of weight, but equally there’s not much drape to it. It has a border print stripe that needed to be incorporated into the skirt, but I don’t know if any of you have ever tried to match a skirt pattern’s hem with a straight line? They are not usually drafted that way, they are usually drafted with a slight curve. So that took a little bit of engineering.
What I did was generally ignored the grainline arrows on the pattern & used the straight edge of the border to “best fit” along the bottom skirt pattern edges (making sure that the stripes would match on back & front pieces). With the Chardon, the skirt is wider at the hem than the waist, despite the fabric used to make the box pleats which means that cutting the hem from the line of the border stripe makes the side seams follow a line that creates a larger waist (think of it as a different kind of pivot if that helps?) Therefore I had to recut the side seams, from the original waist size on the pattern piece – effectively cutting a new line from the hem up to the waist.
Scrappy picture drawn in the front of my notebook to explain. The shaded area is the original pattern piece. Im using the back as an example as the fold complicates it further. This is my quick method, but if you wanted to be careful you could redraft a whole new pattern piece using the same method, but applying it to paper as opposed to directly onto the fabric like lazy me.
1. Line up hem to border as best fit, taking care to match border stripes when cutting both front and back. Pin.
2. Cut hem then waist, extending waistline to fold.
3. Remove original pattern.
4. Measure the length of the waist and mark along where you’ve already cut. You will have cut a longer waist than you need.
5. Draw a new side seam line between the side edge of the hem you’ve already cut and the new marked waist measurement, and cut.
6. Pin the patterns edge to the waist edge to transfer markings for box pleats. To mark pocket placement you probably need to unpin and line up side edges of pattern pieces.
I hope this makes sense?
Apart from that I think it was plain sailing. Pockets were made using the same fabric this time, no elephant surprises! It all came together very quickly. That’s another joy of this pattern. I did make belt loops too, since I knew a belt would be a worthy accessory.
I have worn it once now, and it is a perfect little skirt. it did crease with the traumas of two bus journeys, but hey, can’t have it all ways. I had to wear it with tights ( nude) but being black I think it could be worn with other coloured tights too …seems to be the requirement this month!!
Yet again the ability to make the “bow” version has eluded me, therefore I can forsee more Chardons in the future to realise that dream….anyone else jumped on the Chardon waggon?
ps bus journeys involved going to Truro fabrics ! I have some hugely exciting fabric to show you. Yes, I was restrained, but only in my purse. NOT in the choice of print!