Polka dot Chardon skirt

Posted on 15 May, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

A big thank you to Lizzy, who was so thoughtful sending me some pretty & totally “me” polka dot fabric after I was unable to catch up with her & come to the epic London blogger meet. I felt it was opportune to whip me up another Chardon skirt with it, loving the look, feel & fit of my red denim skirt. I thought it could be a skirt that could blend into my summer work wardrobe too.

So, the details. The fabric is a border print light weight cotton. Not much to it in terms of weight, but equally there’s not much drape to it. It has a border print stripe that needed to be incorporated into the skirt, but I don’t know if any of you have ever tried to match a skirt pattern’s hem with a straight line? They are not usually drafted that way, they are usually drafted with a slight curve. So that took a little bit of engineering.

What I did was generally ignored the grainline arrows on the pattern & used the straight edge of the border to “best fit” along the bottom skirt pattern edges (making sure that the stripes would match on back & front pieces). With the Chardon, the skirt is wider at the hem than the waist, despite the fabric used to make the box pleats which means that cutting the hem from the line of the border stripe makes the side seams follow a line that creates a larger waist (think of it as a different kind of pivot if that helps?) Therefore I had to recut the side seams, from the original waist size on the pattern piece – effectively cutting a new line from the hem up to the waist.

Scrappy picture drawn in the front of my notebook to explain. The shaded area is the original pattern piece. Im using the back as an example as the fold complicates it further. This is my quick method, but if you wanted to be careful you could redraft a whole new pattern piece using the same method, but applying it to paper as opposed to directly onto the fabric like lazy me.
1. Line up hem to border as best fit, taking care to match border stripes when cutting both front and back. Pin.
2. Cut hem then waist, extending waistline to fold.
3. Remove original pattern.
4. Measure the length of the waist and mark along where you’ve already cut. You will have cut a longer waist than you need.
5. Draw a new side seam line between the side edge of the hem you’ve already cut and the new marked waist measurement, and cut.
6. Pin the patterns edge to the waist edge to transfer markings for box pleats. To mark pocket placement you probably need to unpin and line up side edges of pattern pieces.

I hope this makes sense?

Apart from that I think it was plain sailing. Pockets were made using the same fabric this time, no elephant surprises! It all came together very quickly. That’s another joy of this pattern. I did make belt loops too, since I knew a belt would be a worthy accessory.

I have worn it once now, and it is a perfect little skirt. it did crease with the traumas of two bus journeys, but hey, can’t have it all ways. I had to wear it with tights ( nude) but being black I think it could be worn with other coloured tights too …seems to be the requirement this month!!

Yet again the ability to make the “bow” version has eluded me, therefore I can forsee more Chardons in the future to realise that dream….anyone else jumped on the Chardon waggon?

ps bus journeys involved going to Truro fabrics ! I have some hugely exciting fabric to show you. Yes, I was restrained, but only in my purse. NOT in the choice of print!

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The anti-climax blouse: Butterick 3082

Posted on 8 May, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

So remember way back when, I had a dream that I could replicate, or sort of make something similar to Joanne’s awesome frilly vintage blouse here?

Source: stitchandwitter.com via Scruffybadger on Pinterest

Well, I started to action this months ago & it has been a UFO…until now! (I now have no UFOs people- how cool is that!?) So it is time to tell the story of how such grand designs became a bit of a damp squib.

I used this pattern, Butterick 3082 & don’t even feel as if I’ve done this justice.

I mean I bought this because of all of the dreamy neck treatments: pussy bow, frill, gorgeous collar & bow tie. But ignored them all. So I started thinking I’d make a frill neck blouse a la Joanne using some beautiful floral poly chiffon that I’d got from the Rag Market. Gorgeous teal, brown & reds in this fabric that are just too pretty…. I cut strips & used my overlocker to roll-hem the edges in red. I made running tracks of this, I tell you…

I then made up the button-back blouse, version D, but with narrower sleeves. Now it could be that Joanne’s blouse is front fastening, I wasn’t sure. My thinking though had designed it with buttons behind me. I did make a quick version out of an old sheet to test the pattern, when I tried it on, it appeared to be a fab fit, bust darts even falling correctly. So I could go full steam ahead & make it up in the chiffon.

Everything was going well, I’d made up the blouse, inserted the sleeves & had metres of ruffle. BUT positioning the ruffle around my neck was wrong. Just wrong folks. Pierrot, Krusty the clown would have been proud. OK, so the neckline is rather high on this blouse. Possibly lowering it & then adding frills would feel more comfortable.

But that would involve recutting a neckline, facings & just general sewing-unpicking tedium. I try not to go back with sewing, not when the execution of an idea is basically flawed. High neck, ruffles, me? Remember my last dalliance with ruffles?

I have to apologise folks, there are no pictures with ruffles attached. It was one of those occasions when the camera was not handy & my fear of frills made me panic – I removed them instantly. I know, that’s what you come back here for – me looking silly & showing the warts & all of my sewing. Sadly I failed you this time. Please forgive me. Call it a medical emergency.

Still, this blouse generally moped around my sewing room waiting for me to pick it up & redeem it. You see, I do LOVE Joanne’s blouse. Still.

So I hemmed the sleeves (which were also potential ruffle victims), hemmed the blouse & put the buttonholes in the back. I made it simple. In the picture above you can barely see the buttons, such a close match they must be!

Now I still have misgivings about this blouse, despite having worn it now.

First of all I never wear a neckline this high. Ever. Which is why I tried it with the necklace. Plus, When I saw the photos I was struck by how wide & boxy it is. But then, how much do we stand with arms out like that (except perhaps to cool over-heated arm-pits)?

Chiffon hangs lightly, we move, maybe it doesn’t look huge in normal wear? I could always put a couple of vertical darts in the front too. So, to conclude. This blouse is a lesser version of its potential. I have doubts about it, but have worn it. It is a very good blouse to wear out in evenings with trousers & I am looking forward to pairing it with my red denim Chardon skirt too….tucked in it could have a whole different look. I think it is the prettiness of the fabric that is redeeming it….& maybe I don’t always have to embellish, maybe sometimes I just need to keep it simple?

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My Colette Laurel top

Posted on 21 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

I’m just going to plunge in & reveal my affection for Colette Patterns’ newest addition to the awesome collection: Laurel

I know it’s a shift dress & I undoubtedly have plenty of shift dress patterns. But. Look on the website there are some rather nice mods to this simple style. For some reason (might it have anything to do with the competition? ) I opted to give it a go.

I compared the pattern pieces with my tried & tested New Look 6000 which is my “block” now & from experience I know that Colette patterns are usually too big in the back for me & usually bust darts are too high. How fantastic to have a pattern “block” I tell you! It makes fitting & anticipating what might need to be done so much easier …

I thought I’d make the top. But you can see that as I’ve already started with the pics. By the way, excuse the “slicked ” hair look – I’d just come back from a run, showered etc & the hair is still damp. It is not a look I take out onto the streets, honest.

Ahem. Back to the top. Laurel. It is such a quick make , even when there are all these stripes to match. The fabric came from Mandors in Edinburgh & is a buttery glazed cotton. Such a delight to sew with, but I didn’t want to make any mistakes (who ever actually wants to make mistakes :-s ?) as it seems to be a fabric with memory & I worried it would show any holes left by misadventurous stitching.

Side seams look pretty awesome to me! The back has a centre back seam, but joy of joys, this top has a big enough neckline for not requiring any zips or buttons (unless of course your hair is too huge to fit)

Look – there is a seam down the centre back – honest! So it has bust darts & rear vertical darts for a touch of shaping. Whilst I am wearing it out-tucked it might appear a bit more tube-like than my usual fitted styles, but it’s a casual top & tell you what it looks adorable with my new red Chardon skirt, tucked in. Sorry no pics, you’ll have to take my word for it.

As you’re used to if you have sewn Colette before the instructions are just right, but then remember this is a simple make. And peeps, no facings, yes, did you hear me there are no facings, just plain old bias binding! (Or handmade self bias binding which is what I used & boy it looks cute with those diagonal stripes! oops – again I’m teasing as I haven’t taken any photos of that either!) My version, sleeve length, top length etc is just about out of the packet as designed, except (& you can see this a bit on the rear picture above) I did not gather the sleeves but made a few tiny pleats as this fabric is so lovely I didn’t want to create any puncture marks through extra gathering stitches. (Oh & remember I made adjustments to fit, as expected – narrowing the back & lowering the bust dart)

I am won over by this pattern, seriously. There is a lot of scope for individualising it (who me?!) & if the dress is anywhere near as lovely to make as the top….(hint hint, it is! ) I will come back & show you my next Laurel soon …..

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Denim Trousers: Sewaholic Thurlow wins again

Posted on 8 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

I can’t wait to show you my latest make: my denim Sewaholic Thurlow Trousers. I don’t think I can call them jeans even though they are made out of denim, can I?

Do you remember Lladybird’s awesome Thurlows in denim ? (she did call hers “jeans” or “Thurlow jeans” rather). When I saw them I felt that it could be a brilliant half way house to biting the bullet & making real jeans. I mean, I really am so in awe of those of you out there who sew jeans. The felled seams, the huge thicknesses of layers of denim requiring topstitching. The belt loops (think about how many layers of stitching your poor ol’ machine has to chew through multiple times). Also I think if I made jeans they would require by virtue of it being in my power, the most awesome pockets with stitching design I could muster. So, you can see all my excuses for delaying any kind of adventure into jeans making. Trousers made out of denim however? Casual trousers that could become that weekend staple? I can now proudly proclaim I have ticked that box & have been wearing said trousers casually with pride (hence the creases!!)

I’d this denim in my stash but I can’t remember where it came from….bad badger. I even mis-remembered it – I’d seen its reverse (as that is how I’d folded it) & thought it was more of a stonewash! Oh larks. I’d been keeping it back for summer! But then I investigated more closely once Lladybird’s Thurlow jeans were out there. Once I’d made my first pair in houndstooth I knew another pair would be joining them to hang in the wardrobe whilst I was in bed &/or at the office. At all other times there was a good chance they would be surgically applied to my body*.

So once again utilising Lladybird’s excellent sewalong notes for the key stages (welt pockets, fly front) away I sailed. I used some garish “Hawaiian” themed cotton in pea green for the pockets & lining, but made a small boo boo. Can you tell?

Whilst the fabric does seem upside down, there are bits that are the right way up so it’s not that. That’s right, for some unbeknown to me reason, the right side should in fact be inside the pockets, (If I have got this right that is) but then you wouldn’t see much of it would you? You know, taking them off you’d see the reverse of the lining, as opposed the true glory of pea green canoists in grass skirts. So if it is a mistake I can live with it…actually, more than live with it, I positively like it.

I was fully intending to make them with turn ups too. I couldn’t remember if Lladybird had or not. It turns out she had, but it transpired that I got my calculations wrong & had ankle nippers. In fact I had to hem them three times until I’d got them long enough. Luckily I used the invisible hem on my machine (the one that looks like a heart rate monitor) so it wasn’t too arduous only galling. Weird how sometimes you get these finishing stages so wrong.

[Yes that ball has not moved ....it's always in these pics isn't it....let's see if it's still there after I give the grass its first cut of the year....? ]

What else is there to say? Well, I thought the fit was quite nice. I’d made them a size smaller as the fabric had a little bit of lycra in it.

And it was only through these photos that I can see there’s some odd creasing going on under butt cheek visible at the side (cos we all look at side views in the mirror don’t we?) If I straighten up it looks as if it disappears slightly though

Oh yes, here are my double welt pockets in close up too without having to look at them on my person …

They are not perfect, but good enough for me. I really enjoyed the whole making, but having pockets like this, fly fronts etc do make them just that little more satisfying, especially knowing that there is not only Tasia’s helpful instructions.but Lladybird’s tutorial too.

And for the eagle eyed of you, yes that is a Sozo batwing top I’m wearing in the photos. Isn’t it just so cool …

* when I am not wearing my Laura Lounge trousers of course!

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Maria Denmark: Loungewear

Posted on 25 March, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Now I have a confession and I don’t think I’m alone.

When I get home from work the first thing I do is get changed into ‘comfy clothes’. What’s so bad about that you might ask? Well, I have been known to get changed into my fleecey flannel PJs before it has even reached 6pm! For shame! Something needed to be done! My options for ‘getting comfy’ needed expanding……

You know I’m a huge fan of Maria Denmark’s patterns, well time to catch up on a couple of uber comfy favorites that are getting lots of wear. I’m sure there are all sorts of loungewear sewing patterns out there, but Maria Denmark’s Birgitte Tee (long sleeve) and her new Laura Lounge trousers are in my book perfect.

I made the Birgitte tee ages ago, and have been getting all sorts of wear out of it, not just horizontal nesting. I love the fit & the amount of negative ease. Here’s my first write up, & making it a second time is just as pleasurable (even having to match stripes!!)

When MariaDenmark brought out her Laura Lounge trousers, & with imminent Half Marathon recuperating needed I hastened to make them.

Let me tell you, I love the fit. Loving the fit of my three Maria Denmark top patterns I wasn’t sure if her below the waist patterns would love or hate my lumps & bumps. Well, they fit like a dream. And come together super quickly. Maria’s instructions are illustrated by photographs which I happen to love & followed very easily. I did not however follow the waistband instructions, being truly lazy I just used the pattern piece as a fold over waistband, however there are two options Maria describes, including one that requires shirring. Trust me, I shall give it a go as I LOVE these lounge pants.

Check out the fabric – it’s chunky corduroy, no it’s not it’s stretch velour! I think fabric wise you need to chose a knit that is more substantial than a drapey t-shirt material

Been doing rather a lot of this recently, not been 100% & I commend such outfits to do it in!

From behind – they are slightly bootleg- pretty flattering considering they are tight round the derriere (as they should be). .

Watching season one, Game of Thrones & knitting ….(it’s a simple hat from Jane Brocket’s Gentle Art of Knitting)

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Running Bows: Tutorial

Posted on 20 March, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Remember these? The perfect accessories for your running shoes.

I think I need to rename them my “Speed Bows” or “Go faster Bows”- essential accessorizing for the sewster that runs. Or the sewster’s nieces’ lace ups or the sewster’s daughter’s Mary Janes perhaps? However, these are official Badger Race Day wear that maybe thousands of fellow racers have been coveting from afar & wished they too could sport colour & quirk at pavement level. I wear them & feel girly, (but that does not prevent me taking it seriously, in case you wondered. It is possible to feel girly & competitive, I assure you.)

This post will eliminate any scratching of head or mental gymnastics you may have started to make your own. They are too simple for words, which is why writing a tutorial for them will be easy peasy.

1. Cutting your fabric

Start with some rectangles of your chosen fabric. Scraps of craft cotton, dress making poly/ cotton, even Liberty lawn would produce some exceptional bows & if you were feeling glam I could also imagine some in raw silk …anything really that’s hanging around & is not too drapey.

Each bow is made up of a larger rectangle for the bow & a smaller piece for the knot. I’ve cut many different sized bows, these are on the larger size & my bow piece is approx 14cm x 13cm and the knot is 8cm x 8cm.

2. Sewing the bow

I generally took say .75cm seam allowances, but it really is no great shakes what you take. I just decided there was no need to sew the usual 1.5cm & then trim.

Fold each bow in half right sides together along the length & sew leaving a gap in the middle for turning. (I would reinforce this part of the seam by the centre as it will be under strain when you do turn it- whatever you normally do at the start/ end of a straight seam)

Squish the tube that you have just sewn, still inside out so that the seam you have just sewn is central then flatten each end & sew across each end. Clip the corners & turn right side out poking the corners with a turner so that they are nice & sharp. Press. You don’t need to sew up the gap that you used to turn it through, honest!

3. Sew the knot

Right sides together sew one edge of each knot & turn right sides out & press.

Now this is the nifty bit. These bows have buttonholes to thread your shoe laces through so they stay where you want them! The buttonholes will sit underneath the bow when the knot is wrapped around the bow, so make two tiny buttonholes with a good 1.5cm distance to the closest unsewn edge as you’ll need some seam allowance left there when you come to fix the knot around the bow. Cut through the buttonholes now so that they are ready to be used.

4. Assembling the bows

Back to the bow pieces – using some doubled thread & a needle sew a smallish running stitch along the centre of the bow & pull it to gather the bow. You might want to play around with the gathers to distribute them to make them pleasing to your eye. Wrap the thread, knot it, etc to secure this new “waist” in your bow.

Take your knot & wrap it around the centre of your bow, folding the exposed raw edge under & then sewing it by hand.

Ta na! All you need now is to thread them onto your laces.

Here’s my older pair- slightly smaller in scale.

Now if you are anything like me, these bows will stay put on said running shoes, weathering all the conditions that you impose, mud, rain, snow even, until the shoes are not even good enough for gardening.

Have fun making them! Let me know how they go & whether they become your speed bows, won’t you?

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The Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat- me tester – wheee!

Posted on 16 March, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Sewing the latest pattern by Sewaholic: The Robson Trench Coat.

Available now in the Pattern Store

Being a pattern tester was mega exciting. This was my second time, the first being a Cambie dress tester. I had such a great experience before, but admit this was a completely spontaneous decision. Timescales worked: with the time that we have been given to complete our testing, this had potential to take care of a couple of weeks’ sewing priorities. My biggest & actually most stressful problem was sourcing fabric quickly enough. This was my biggest drama. I was looking for some cotton twill, maybe with polka dots or small ditsy flowers. Who would have thought that seemed to be too much to ask. I even went local (sorry the way this sounds – I really do want to support local shops, but tend to buy most of my fabric at fabric markets, as you know!) – being prepared to pay more, but all they could supply was a stone coloured twill. Or a polyester twill. I had a bit of a problem about ordering online as I wanted the weight of the fabric to be right & this would be a occasion I’d recommend getting swatches in advance. This coat will be belted & you don’t want it to be so stiff that it resembles a lampshade when you wear it!

I also found it impossible to find my fabric vision online- are you as surprised as me? I really spent a long time searching for something suitable, something individual enough but not “of an era” (Think Matalan bold funky coats from a few years ago). I did find a potential fabric (at a very good price, & versatile enough that if it wasn’t right I could put it to other use – ie a Minoru) I ordered it. But here I was foolish again – I’d ordered from a European site, speed of delivery was not a feature (the site was completely open about it so I don’t think it worth naming here) but testing time was ticking on, I had to revert to a backup plan. Here started phase 2 of the great trench coat fabric hunt.

UKFabrics Online I knew provided first class delivery & were my preferred supplier. I’d had very good dealings with them before Christmas when the Christmas post delayed delivery & had confidence that they would be able to turn around my order very quickly. So quickly in fact- I ordered at lunchtime & it arrived the next morning.

(Sorry about the unfortunate washing line shadows!)

What did I chose? Well, I bravely opted for a bright red micro fibre, which was described as windproof, waterproof & suitable for “high performance” coats & jackets (I can’t find my colour but have linked to something similar). I wasn’t sure what I was going to get, but it turns out to be the kind of fabric that many hiking jackets are made from – peach-skin on the outside & sort of canvas-with-a-synthetic-something on the inside. It was not difficult to sew, it did not require a Teflon machine foot, but I did not use pins. I also used a slightly longer stitch length & a fine needle (an 80) Cutting out I used weights & made sure I transferred markings as I cut each piece. When sewing seams I used hairgrips! And for more complex sewing situations (eg attaching beltloops) I basted carefully.

(Oh I love the details, the epaulettes, the cuffs)

Interfacing? Not being sure about iron-on fusibles & following Tasia’s suggestions I used calico (muslin) apart from the back neck facing which I thought would be neater if I used a self fabric to face it.

So what of the Robson trench? Well, never having made any kind of coat before I have to say I really enjoyed it. The challenges of sewing the fabric eclipsed any concerns I might have had about sewing “trench flaps” & two part sleeves! My primary concern was to anchor each seam sufficiently & only to sew it once – I was trying to avoid any unnecessary & incorrect puncture marks that would be left by getting it wrong! It was really straight forward to make (no lining) & very logical. I even sewed my first in-seam pockets with welts! All the seams are finished with bias binding which I can now do easily without use of any pins or hairgrips. Do not under estimate the amount of bias you will need – I guess that I used over 10m. All seams are edge stitched also – this was great for my fabric because it was not an easy fabric to press & instead a good bit of edge stitching remedied that to provide a smarter finish. The knock on effect of this however – do not underestimate how much thread you need! I used more than a double sized spool – I suppose this means I went up to my third regular sized spool.

Now onto the fun part! I have a trench coat!! It’s red with cream buttons (this was in my “back up vision” as I was buying fabric) & inspiration struck ! I could use rick rack! Yay! Not wanting to overdo it & suffer death by rick rack I applied it only to the “trench flaps”. I thought that the potential to rick rack-ify collar & pocket flaps as well would be too OTT.

Let me tell you about the buttons too- they are kind of wobbly & not pure circles, but the colour was the right kind of cream to match the rick rack. I used two different sizes: large for double breasted fastening & smaller for the details like epaulettes, cuffs & trench flaps. This coat needs about 4m of 150cm wide fabric (for a size 4) which doesn’t make it a dirt cheap make. But then how much would a trench coat set you back anyway? In my mind this was not a “wearable muslin” but something for my “permanent collection”. The fabric was about £6.99 per metre which means that the fabric cost just under £30. Notions added to that amounted to another £20 or so. You know I sew so much cheaper fabric that it was a welcome challenge to be in a different head space. It was scarier as I really didn’t want to waste my investment. It was scarier because I did not have as much time to sew it as I would have liked due to late purchase of fabric. It was also scarier sewing a new fabric that would not forgive any mistakes.

But it was worth it. Note to self: be scared more. Take more risks & I’ll end up with some quality in my “permanent collection”!

[That'll be the vintage Vogue jacket next then, won't it?!]

Thank you Tasia for allowing me the opportunity to be a tester – it is always a super pleasure working with you. Good luck with this pattern. Peeps, give it a go, as usual the instructions guide you through seamlessly, & before you know it you’ve completed something easily that you might have thought was going to be a challenge. The perfect coat just in time for Spring. I can’t wait for the weather to warm up so that I can put mine to the test. P.S. I’m also going to make a matching rain hat – too right it’ll have rick rack! Watch this space

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The jacket

Posted on 12 March, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Hello peeps! I’m afraid I’ve been offline a lot the last few days & this is not due to improve until the weekend, but until then, I’d been meaning to share some delightful inspirations & *the actual jacket* I shall be making to partner my polka dot frock (New Look 6000)

Remember I said I needed to work out what to wear with it for the wedding? It sent me off in a spin to look for a suitably vintage inspired jacket that would not swamp this very fitted dress, but would complement its lines. Vintage 50s/ 60s came to mind. I have picked out a couple of darlings from my “Things I’d love to sew” Board on Pinterest.

Source: etsy.com via Scruffybadger on Pinterest

Now I love the rounded collar & scoop neck. It’s cropped too which is a good shape. But too boxy thinks I. So then I ambled down the classic dress/jacket suit route.

Source: etsy.com via Scruffybadger on Pinterest

This could do the trick I thought, but would it really be *right*? Is it fitted/ pretty enough? I have plenty of other “dress/jacket suit” patterns as inspiration on my Pinterest Board. Then I saw this one & swooned …

Source: etsy.com via Scruffybadger on Pinterest

Would I be able to engineer such a cute bolero shape? Could I get the scalloped collar looking so adorable??

I also like the idea of this …

Source: etsy.com via Scruffybadger on Pinterest

But this is a jacket that’s a star, not a jacket to compete with a polka dot frock.
In true sewing blogger spirit though, before I even had to contend with any decisions Jane came to rescue me offering me a sacred Vintage Vogue which I have to say I snapped up gleefully, it being too perfect for words ..

For this dress I shall be making View E1 – can you imagine the polka dot neckline peeping through? Sitting on my hips with cute “bracelet length” sleeves. And what fabric you ask? Well I have some teal Melton Wool & some floral lining, what do you think? (As always colours are not shown in true vivid gorgeousity this time of year in artificial light. Please take my word for it that this is intense but classy) I do have red lining (shown also with a gold glow!) but feel the floral will be more fun.

Do you think it will work ?

PS sorry if I am offline again for a few more days…normal service will be resumed shortly!

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Baggy trousers: Vogue 8836

Posted on 6 March, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Can I say a big thank you to everyone who left me a comment on my last half marathon post …I was so hugely touched by your support, thank you xx

OK, I promised you some finished garments. Here’s something for you to get your eyes around.

Don’t ask me what my inspiration was. I have no idea. It certainly wasn’t these guys …

Source

But when you see mine, you could be forgiven for thinking that I am channeling them. I’m trying to think why I bought this pattern, Vogue 8836 & all I can think was that the photo used gave an aura of style: wide legged pants, high waist.

Source Vogue Patterns

And it reminded me of one of the outfits worn in Coco before Chanel when they are by the sea, (& I’ve vague memories of such trousers & a Breton shirt) but scour the webs as I might, I cannot find it. Maybe I am deluded. But I guess outfit inspiration for this post in general comes from the film. Bear in mind that the pattern envelope surely crushes all illusions of style:

It took all my abilities to focus on the original photo to convince myself that it was worth a go. I’d bought some warm flannel type fabric from, yes, you’ve guessed it Birmingham Rag Market specifically for these trousers. It’s grey with a kind of herringbone woven into it. I’d been thinking that I’d make them as a winter weight & decide whether they would be suitable for nautical style in spring/ summer weight. I kind of fancy some chino type trousers in navy or petrol blue.

Note, the pattern says “Easy”. What? Trousers that are easy to sew? How can that be? Well let me tell you that they are loose fitting, pleated at the waist. Get the waist fitting correctly with adequate room at your hips & this type of trousers hangs beautifully. No need for faffing with crotch length/ depth as they are designed for a looser fit.

OK, so if they are looser fit does that mean that they have the potential to enlarge rather than accentuate one’s curves? I guess in theory, if they hang nicely & you’ve got enough room in your hips, but snug enough without pulling the pocket, they should just create a different but flattering silhouette? I’m still a bit unsure myself because I’ve made these as per packet & tissue pattern. The legs are soooooo wide that I am not sure what shoes to wear with them. They have to be flat for me, but robust enough that they don;t get swallowed up by the trouser leg monster. [This may justify a new shoe purchase you realise ]

I’ve been wearing them at home & they are so cosy & easy to wear. The pleats can easily mask post pig-out bloating. The fabric is like two large tubes of blanket encasing my stick legs. Or maybe wearing a skirt on each leg perhaps?

I think I’m brave enough to wear them out in public to work. They just feel so very *wide*. If I had the right shoes I would try it. The shoes I’m wearing in the photos are desperate. I wore them just down the road to the shop (so no more than a mile in total) & they rip my heels, even with socks. (Not a smart move the day before a half marathon let me tell you).

OK, I’ve kind of talked about them in reverse order. What about the making? They really are simple. The fly front is explained very well & that is potentially your trickiest manoeuvre. Everything else is straight up & down with a curvy central seam joining the two legs up. Turn-ups too are pretty straightforward – just extra big hems.

The pockets & roominess of these trousers “at top” are inviting for hands that don’t know what to do. I felt myself walking around with warmer hands thrust inside. I used a “swimmers” remnant from my shirtdress to line the pockets. Very pleasing to see it in the winter.

There are fake pockets on the back – these are just flaps, but do serve to break up an expanse of butt – helps with the illusion of a smaller behind I’m told. I used shell heart buttons.

I experimented this time with interfacing. I took a risk primarily out of laziness & needing a break from fusible interfacing. I used self fabric to interface the waistband & pocket flaps. I seemed to prefer hand sewing it in rather than running the gauntlet with some fusible interfacing that I just knew was going to misbehave (this clairvoyance is a new skill). Whilst it worked well in providing more robust flaps/ waistband, I’d have to say that even with clipping corners it’s still more of a bulky finish (call me Sherlock too).

I’ve added this pic as it shows how much *room* there is at the top. It’s clearly a way of wearing trousers that I need to get used to. Kind of Chaplinesque …

I have to say though that I will be tempted to make more of these trousers. Maybe I’ll slim them down a bit. I can’t imagine any mariner worth his salt would want bell bottoms quite this wide …as Gary inferred, they must be fashionable because they are not practical. (Not that “fashionable” is my requirement, but you know what I’m saying!)

Anyone else made these? What have your experiences been? Different fabrics?

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Eliza M: Pussy Galore blouse

Posted on 20 February, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Here follows the first of my birthday presents launched (& a few others used too!) The Eliza M Pussy Galore Bow blouse.

Overall impression of the Eliza M Pussy Galore bow blouse: super cute & worth persevering with.

I love the style & the cut – there are deep darts both front & back that has created almost a peplum effect when un-tucked (not my style, but I am showing a variety of wearing options in the interest of science & no, I do not usually wear white shoes with teal tights, honest)

Its sleeves are extremely loveable with gathered cuffs & sleeve cap – designed in areas of intense gathers which I have a fondness for I must admit. After looking through my variety of bow neck blouses/ dresses* I must admit to being concerned that the neckline would be too high to suit me, but thankfully I am over that, & wearing it doesn’t strangle me either. It feels very comfortable.

So my reflections on the pattern, since I see that Eliza M has a large range, with mostly dresses, but some really cute separates as well (now being stocked by Jaycotts even). You buy the pattern in the size that you want – which is quite a retrograde step for us modern day sewsters when we are used to multi sized patterns (should our bust & waist/hips not match regular shapes), however, this pattern does hark back to vintage & that needs to be remembered.

The packaging is pretty, A4 ish in size, the golden frame leads us in to what is a very simple product: patterns ready to cut out with only one cutting line (see, there are benefits to buying single sizes!), one sheet of A4 instructions – words on one side & annotated diagrams on the other.

I do like annotated diagrams & will always go there first. Saying that though, I’d suggest that the instructions are on the economical side (even the wordier version) & if you haven’t ever made a bow/tie neck before I’d go so far to say there is not enough detail about how to do it. I have made a couple in the past, & got making this one up wrong. I could dredge my memory bank to rectify, but I didn’t get enough help from this pattern. But in the spirit of a vintage reproduction maybe it’s remaining true to the era it drew inspiration from, I wouldn’t want to knock it.

I was pleased that the sleeves were inserted flat (probably not a vintage method?), however next time I would think twice about when I added the sleeve cuff, as it would be neater to attach it as a band rather than it also having an ugly side seam in it.

In my last post I told how I’d taken a few extra steps (a duplicate seam to insert the sleeve & I stay stitched the neckline). I also added interfacing to the facing, something I am loathe to do without wherever there are buttons & buttonholes.

The fabric wasn’t the easiest to play around with, in fact I think it was messing with me – trying to match notches was a waste of time (& sleeve notches didn’t always tally sleeve to blouse I found). I also hated that this fabric does have a right & wrong side (a slightly different finish ) but trying to identify it at night under artificial light was too difficult – I should have marked it when cutting – or sewn it all up in one go like I usually do & then you can remember whether you cut out with right sides together or not.
But on a huge plus, wait for it, minimum iron. Score! This will get a lot of use as a result, I promise you.

Somehow I messed up the front neckline – possibly trying to adhere to the notches too inflexibly. This meant that I had extra ease in the bodice when attaching the collar, resulting in it not sitting very well in the upper chest area. But, hey ho, it’s wearable & the fabric & dots & bow mask all that ! This is a very wearable muslin, I will persevere to get it right next time having learnt a few lessons this time. (But in case you didn’t hear me “I do love it!!”)

Do you like the buttons? They sprung out at me from my birthday box of sewing delights. All fake: plastic pretending to be gilt & plastic masquerading as mother of pearl, but cute all the same! Also from this box, a new gadget which I found easier to use for spacing buttonholes than a regular 6″ seam gauge.

I’ve also recently been given a metric one by the lovely Maria Denmark, so have one for all eventualities. It’s fun having new toys to think about how to try out

*By the way, in my discussion of the bow neck patterns I have, how could I forget that I also have Victory Patterns Hazel dress & Simplicity 2154?! Some of you guys have a better memory of my makes than I have!!

And second by the way, some really interesting comments in the last post about what steps people take above & beyond what the instructions tell you to…fascinating! I will keep going back to it I tell you to try some of these out. (Putting sleeves in flat & “bagging” interfacing are two I will instantly try to do (more) of)

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