Tag Archives: Colette patterns

Laurel top feature

Oh Lovely Liberty Lawn Laurel top

It was my shopping / inspiration trip with Jane that got me thinking about making a sleeveless Colette Patterns Laurel top out of one of my new Liberty Tana lawn pieces, bought with the lovely lady herself. I have been thinking of using a metre of Liberty lawn to make up a sleeveless button up blouse ( don’t worry, there will be one of those too), but when discussing patterns, like you do with other sewsters, a renewed vision for a Laurel visited me.

Laurel top
I wear my stripey 3/4 sleeved Laurel aplenty.  One of the reasons it works so well is that it is a classic colour and stripe for me, and I always feel it represents my style whenever I wear it.  Sewing the Laurel top is another fabulous experience- no closures, no facings and bias bound openings.  I’ve perfected my pattern so that darts are placed right for me, so to cut and sew is a simple exercise in all that is joyful about sewing.

Laurel top

Choosing  a Liberty print to make this I knew would create another classic piece for my wardrobe, and an occasion where the pattern needs to be clear, simple and classic to let the fabric do the talking.

Laurel top

I’ve made a sleeveless Laurel dress ( my elephants) and had used bias for the armholes and it worked successfully I felt, and therefore set to on an impulse one afternoon, slicing through my Liberty.  It came together as quickly as I had anticipated.  What’s more to say?

Laurel top

This little top is exactly what I had planned- the perfect classic tank top that can be worn tucked in or loosely with trousers or shorts.  I cannot wait to wear it with rolled up trousers, paddling in the sea.  Equally it has fared well being paired with a cardigan, tucked into my flora skirt, at work.  Oh and the other treasure about this ? You only need a metre of fabric.  Certainly worth an investment I’d say!

Mens Flowery Shirts

Take Two Shirts

I’ve been catching up with my 2013 Christmas makes (*shock*)!  Yes, I’m rubbish & yes, after all this time I have got my act together & made up the shirts that I had promised my sons for Christmas.  I’d chosen the fabric & given them a bundle for Christmas – & then took their measurements to try this time to get a shirt that was the right size.  Previous versions have been guess work & whilst the sewing has been sound, the sizing hasn’t!  Whilst one son was drowned, the other was never able to wear his sleeves unrolled since I discovered when measuring him that his arms needed an extra 3″!  It’s obvious that sewing for men is going to have the same issues with not fitting the standard sizing as women do, but shame it took me a few fails to find out!

So, only 4 months later, I spent a couple of weekends in a row making men’s shirts.  Floral men’s shirts.*I have not presented them yet to know if they are a success* !!

Mens Floral Shirts

I used the Colette Patterns Negroni shirt for my first make (since I had already cut it to the desired size on previous use- & the measurements appeared to be right for this particular son) & Simplicity 7030 for the following shirt (the larger one – which also seemed to be right sizing for the other son, but with an added 3″ to the sleeves).

And so I sewed.  I’ve said before how I actually love making shirts – for various reasons – but the sense of satisfaction is immense:

-Fabrics for shirt making are usually well behaved, crisp enough to press nicely, delivering nice results;

-The technicalities for making shirts are involved – but not that tricky.

-Precision.  Getting the technicalities to work & look good requires precise sewing- a chance to show yourself what you can do – & when the fabric does what you tell it to, there is only you & the sewing machine to hit it right.

-One of the first steps is siting the chest pocket(s) & there is nothing so motivating as eyeballing your neat, pressed & edge stitched pocket…

It was good making the Negroni first, as we all know how Colette Patterns’ instructions & methods are considered to be the gold standard of sewing.   With the first shirt, then, I deployed various skills & methods that I could compare/ contrast & opt to deploy for the second shirt.  I thought rather than just show off the pictures of the two shirts, which could be quite boring to you, I would show the two side by side & describe what I did the same & what differently.  You see, with all that Archer love out there at the moment, maybe you’re thinking of sewing a man’s shirt next?

In no particular order….

The pockets.

Shirt pockets

 

OK, the pockets as I just said are one of the first steps, & it appears that I am starting at the beginning, but don’t expect the logic to continue …

So, Negroni has pocket options (I think?) – but I went for the chevron shape with pocket flap x2.  The Simplicity pattern has one simple rectangular pocket, no button.  It doesn’t take a genius to spot that the Simplicity pocket is an easier make!  Negroni requires neat pressing to ensure the shape is symmetrical.  There’s more pivoting (pocket & flap) & of course the flaps need to be sited neatly too – so more potential to go wrong, but it won’t!  And a bit of early buttonhole action needed.  Nothing to stop you making a rectangular pocket for Negroni though.  And if you are worried – use a busy fabric like me ;-)

Collars & facings.

Shirt collars and facings

The styling is different for both of these shirts, so two completely different approaches.  Negroni has a flat “convertible collar” which is like a Hawaiian shirt – no collar stand – with a separate front facing (this would allow you to easily make a contrast collar if you wanted).  It’s a simple collar to sew, but clearly a style choice – some men might not like this casual look.  I hope my son does !  The Simplicity pattern uses the traditional collar stand so in theory you could wear a tie with it.  More pieces, but no separate front facing & the front includes a self facing that gives a smart finish to the inside of the centre front- all sewn up – no flappy facing.  The collar itself has been drafted so that there is no heaving with easing – I’ve made shirts recently for me that almost appeared as if the collar stand was not made for the neck opening it was supposed to be sewn to.  Not so with this – it is sewn on without the need for pre-stitching clipping.  Phew.  For both collar points I used this method for a nice crisp finish.  Love it.  I also tend to sew the collar stand facing on as the last step so that I can get a good alignment between the curved collar stand front & the shirt’s centre fronts.  (Ie make collar up, clip, turn, press, edge stitch where wanted.  Sew interfaced collar stand to shirt neck edge.  Attach collar to interfaced collar stand.  Then sew collar stand facing to interfaced collar stand with collar sandwiched in between.)

Yokes and machine finishing.

Shirt yokes

Shirts have lined yokes.  Luckily I had made the Negroni first which has such an awesome method that doesn’t involve any hand sewing – I think it’s the “burrito” method.  Anyway, I deployed it for the Simplicity shirt, even though instructions were to hand sew.  In fact I did not hand sew anything – I stitched in the ditch at every opportunity for both shirts, when in the old days I would have hand sewn collar stand facings & yokes, even cuff facings.

Cuffs & plakets.

Cuffs plackets and laps

Negroni uses a placket for finishing the cuff opening, & Simplicity a continuous lap.  What I love about the Negroni pattern is that even the order for the folding & pressing is numbered to facilitate a neat crisp “arrow head” shape.  There is more potential to go wrong with a placket, but it’s worth a shot as it does produce a nice result.  Not that it is easy to see in such busy fabric!  The continuous lap is the easier option, but neat never the less.  The cuffs are also more intricate with the Colette patterns shirt – each cuff is in two pieces & has curved edges.  This makes it easier to use a contrast cuff facing if you wanted, as well as being a generally nice detail.  The Simplicity shirt has mammoth cuff pieces in comparison- easier to sew!

Flat felled seams or not flat felled seams?

Another reason to be glad for making the Negroni first was the practice in flat felling.  This took me ages as I haven’t done it that many times before & of course, I made mistakes in how I placed my sleeves-to-shirt   – right sides/ wrong sides together?  I can’t remember where I went wrong, but it involved unpicking.  Whilst the sleeves are put in flat, the flat felled sleeve head seam is a fiddle, & the second stage of the seam (ie the folded over finish) is sewn bit by bit to accommodate the curve.  There is most opportunity for a less polished finish here – curves – trying to get uniform seam folding-under – with uniform edge stitching.  So I am glad that it is the most inaccessible & least visible seam when worn!  The side & sleeve seams are sewn in one operation.  In comparison to the sleeve head, it was a breeze.  And it is possible to get all the way into the inner most depths of each sleeve & machine in one fell swoop, even if your logic tells you otherwise.

Flat felled seams

I had contemplated flat felling the Simplicity shirt, but instead did mock flat felled seams – French seams that are then pressed & edge stitched down.  Much simpler (especially if, like me, you use your overlocker to make the first seam so that it is a uniform width with no loose ends.)  There seems to be a balance for me with this mock approach though.  The balance for edge stitching distance & amount of “seam” sewn.  What do I mean?  Well, I like to edge stitch up close to the edge – say 0.5mm -1mm from the edge, but here I am a good 2mm from the edge.  But had I sewn 1mm from the edge, there is much more potential for puckering on the right side of the shirt seam.  And I think the problem lies in the “depth” of my French seam – had I sewn them narrower I would have been able to get the finish that to me looked even more of a mock flat fell.  But I am not losing sleep over it.  It’s still a neat finish.

I think that’s it.  A comparison of two shirts.  Are you tempted to make shirts for the man/ men in your life?

7030 Simplicity

Use Simplicity 7030 & you could even make waistcoat (vest), bow tie & braces (suspenders)!!!  Now that would be dapper!

 

Not such a plain black skirt: Colette Meringue skirt with extras

I’ve not had a plain black skirt for years & have managed along quite happily without feeling the need.  But then you’ll see soon that I’ve made another shirt which got me thinking differently.   And when you see the shirt (later this week, I promise) you’ll understand.

meringue skirt

A little black skirt can be soooo versatile, can’t it?  Easy to pair up with a blouse or sweater of most colours (& I know that Susannah & Trinny would tell you otherwise & not to wear colour with black, but I happen to like wearing all sorts of colours with black myself…blues, reds, cream – is that a colour?) So, an urge was born.

meringue

The idea of a black skirt grew, & I knew that I had a suitable piece of fabric residing in my stash bought from the Birmingham Rag Market a while ago.  This fabric was originally bought for some Clovers as it has some stretch in it, but it has the most gorgeous drape, even if I have no idea what its composition is.  The important thing is that it feels nice & not too polyester – ridden.

meringueWould you like to know what the grey dots are on the wall to my right?  Well….they are the result of us being *really bad* at darts!

My little black skirt though was not going to be *just a pencil skirt*.  If I was to make a plain black skirt, the design of the skirt had to give back a bit of detail.  It was either going to be a Charlotte (but not enough fabric for the ruffle) or the delightful Meringue skirt in the Colette Patterns Handbook.  I have lived in my pinstriped meringue & love it.

meringue skirt

I decided that I should make it again, in plain black, with polka dot lining & a waistband again (I like waistbands, although the Meringue pattern is drafted with a faced waistline).  I learnt a lot about how to line my first Meringue skirt  through trial & error,lining the full skirt right down to the scalloped hem (read about it here) & acknowledged that this is not the best way to line the Meringue skirt.     This time I would keep the lining free from the hem & use the pattern facing.

meringue skirt

OK, the plan was hatched.  Just one more detail occurred to me: velvet ric rac.  Oh yes!  Another way to bring some pizazz into a plain black skirt.  I would add velvet ric rac to the waist seam as if it was piping: an echo of the scallops below but in smaller form.

meringue skirtCheck out the almost polka dot button! Scoop!

So it all went without a hitch.  I followed Lladybird’s invisible zipper method which has an added safety measure of marking stitching end points both sides of your zip to get balance (genius).  Now that worked even better for me, & it will be a sure new technique added to my sewing armory now.  Thank you Lauren :-)

meringue skirt

How it’s possible to make a plain black skirt, not plain.

meringue (2)Happiness is ….turquoise shoes.  I’m telling you, it was confirmation that the Spring is coming getting these babies on!

A peacock Ginger skirt

At last, the light is better & I can take better pictures.  It’s almost as if weather conspired against Me Made May to scupper all thoughts of summer dresses & sunny photo opps.  Oh well.  Anyway, this is just a quick one – both blog post, & make!

I’d mentioned in my last post that I had a bit of a sewing fever (when I actually managed to find time to sew that is), but my sewing fever was fuelled by a need to fill some wardrobe gaps left by my summer clothes not fitting anymore.  Enter Colette Patterns Ginger skirt.  Now anyone who’s sewn this skirt knows it’s a quick make, especially unlined.

With a high sewing temperature I struck, easing my fevered brow by thoughts of a new skirt that would actually fit me & would mean no gaping waistbands as I sit down, no chance of someone taller than me (& let’s face it, there are plenty of people taller than me – the majority of adults & teens over the age of 14 I’d suggest) being able to see my knickers just by looking down the front of my skirt as I stood there.

I’d bought some deeelish peacock feathered cotton in Birmingham at the Fancy Silk store last year.  I’d only bought a metre and a half, & hadn’t any designs on it except having designs on it to be taken home with me.  I love peacock colours, just love them.  This fabric came in different backgrounds & I opted for the turquoise one….

Colette Ginger skirtSo, as I said, I was in a sewing fever & quickly cut out the Colette Ginger pieces, identifying which would be the correct size for me now.  It’s been a while since I’ve sewn this skirt & I’d forgotten that it is not *just* an A line skirt.  This skirt has no darts but is shaped with a slight curve from hip to waist.  Its hem is also shaped so that it has the wisp of a bell effect.  Now I could have cut it so that the front was all one piece, but then, as I said, the centre front seam curves slightly over your belly area, thus making it not a straight line to hug the folded fabric.  I cut it in two pieces & made the seam.

Colette Ginger skirtSorry for the creases, it has been sat around in when these pics were taken.  Anyway,  not sure if you can see there, I undertook absolutely no pattern matching.  I thought about how the rows of feathers lined up when I cut, but that was it.  I retro thought how to compensate for a clumsy and dodgy centre front seam, right obviously through all those glorious feathers.  Edge stitching!  Ta na!  It made it a little more casual, but deliberately so.  It meant that I also needed to edge stitch the waistband once that was all attached & sewn down, to match.

Colette Ginger skirt

I also failed again to find an invisible zip in my stash, therefore sewed a lapped zipper.  Now, I didn’t think this through properly, but did manage to recover my mistake.  Lapped zippers require extra length in the back waistband to pop behind the lapped edge.  Somehow I eeked out enough with what I’d cut, sewing thin seams & taking a bit extra in at the waist.  It’s fine.  Not worth a pic.

Colette Ginger skirtAh, but this was!  The clematis attacked!  So jealous was it of my peacock’s vibrant colours taking the attention away from its glory …

Colette Ginger skirt

So this is the skirt at the end of the day.  I am so happy not to be wearing a grey cardigan!  It’s been great to get my legs out too.  It was work appropriate- score!  And I fashioned my necklace in its honour…

Locket with peacock featherThis is a silver / glass locket.  You can fill it with what you want & over the years it’s had glitter inside, strands of vivid silk threads (sounds more effective than it actually was) & for the last 10 years or so, a pressed daisy.  To bring it more into keeping with my current needs I recovered a single peacock feather earring (the other had long been lost on a night out, in days when my hair was longer & such danglies were more in keeping with my rats tails of a hairstyle).  Quickly trimming off the excess I’d refashioned my locket into a glowing eye of colour.  I think it’ll get lots more wear now! As will this skirt.  Oh, it feels good to be in turquoise again, it means *those* shoes come out to play! :-)

Colette Patterns Laurel Dress: my shrubbery develops

The Colette Patterns Laurel Dress contest was genius, not only to create a buzz about the new pattern from Colette, but that it was this particular pattern: a simple shift dress.  Take this simple shift dress & see what you can do with it…fabric variations, trimmings and clever design can create countless sources for others to get inspired.  Me?  I needed something to get my teeth into in April & that was really the only reason I really bought the pattern.  As mentioned earlier, I am sure I have a few examples of the shift dress pattern in my collection of patterns, so didn’t really need another.  Not that I feel that I am in with a chance of winning, this was most definitely something for me that the taking part was the prize.  I have deliberately kept away from seeing what others have created so far, but I cannot totally avoid some peeks on blogs that have started emerging.

But back to talking about the Laurel Dress, yes it is a simple shift dress, however, when making it up just fits SO well.  I find this with Colette Patterns: each time I make them (Ginger, Beignet, Violet) I make more than one.  I think there is something of real “quality” and style about the drafting.  So, this is yet another Colette pattern for which I have to admit that I have an addiction – fuelled initially by the contest.  Once I started thinking about how I could interpret the Laurel Dress & make it my own, I couldn’t stop with one.  Even making two was not enough.  No, once the ideas started to visit me I made three in a matter of weeks, mainly snatches of weekend sewing too.  And each time I try a completed version on, I LOVE the way it fits & how easy it is to wear & think I could cope with having a Laurel dress for every day of the week!! You see this dress is simple in design but also in making up. Once I’d made the top & got the fit how I liked, each dress came together in a few hours – you could make it even more quickly if you didn’t fuss with some of the detail I added.  It takes a small amount of fabric too- the top even less.  Every dress I made used fabric from my stash.   Folks, I’ve gone Laurel crazy!  Now are you comfy?  Have you got your feet up and a cup of tea?

I wasn’t sure whether to put them all in one post  – three dresses, three variations & three very different looks.  I have camped it up for you folks….you’ll spot a new addition to my wardrobe & we’re not talking about the three dresses!!  There will now follow quite a few photos with the odd bit of narrative.  Not quite a photo story – sorry – missed opportunity – make one up in your head if you want.  It’s hard to know which one to start with – it’s like someone asking you which child is your favorite.  I shall therefore resort to chronological order.

Version One:  The blue Laurel dress with a contrast yoke & some crochet trim.

Blue Laurel 1

It’s made from a printed cotton with a polka dot contrast yoke. Drafting the yoke was easy & I like how it has worked out.  I used crochet trim like piping between the yoke & the main dress piece, as well as edging the sleeves with it.  The buttons I’ve used are almost the same as the flowers in the dress print!

Blue Laurel 2

I used crochet trim like piping between the yoke & the main dress piece, as well as edging the sleeves with it.

Blue Laurel 3

The bias facings & underside of the Peter Pan collar are also polka dots  wheeee!

Blue Laurel

Oh yes!  Red loves it! It’s now hanging up ready for the temperatures to rise a tad.

Version Two: The Elephant ric rac Laurel dress

Elephant Laurel dressNow if anything could be described as a Scruffy Badger signature it is 1. Ric Rac and 2. Elephant fabric.  This combines the two in one awesome dress!  The fabric was sent to me by Sonja from Ginger Makes (at last, I’ve put it to a perfect use, thank you so much you sweetie!!!)

Elephant Laurel neckI have used some solid white as a contrast & the irony!  We all say how much we detest facings, so Colette make a style that uses bias for facings & here I go & draft a facing to use on the outside!  It catches the egg-yolk yellow ric rac at its edge…

Elephant Laurel pocketI took the pocket pattern piece that came with the dress & lengthened it so that I could line my pocket piece & fold over the top.  If you look very carefully you’ll see that the elephants are perfectly place in alignment with the dress fabric.  That my dears is no accident.  I used Mrs C’s genius methodology & have elephant scrawled tracing paper to prove it.

And here’s where it gets even more exciting….the new wardrobe addition.  Both my friend & I are in love with it.  It hasn’t got a name yet, but we’re working on it. (It seems to respond well to “Bouffy”)

LaurelCan you see how exciting it is to have such a perfect barnet to go with such a cute dress? I’m trying to show off my fluffy pink ring (also new) but was clearly to fidgety to get it in focus!

Laurel back I did try to make sure the elephants kept to their rows….not quite perfect matching at the vertical on the centre back, but that would have been quite tricky.  All of my dresses use lapped zippers (tutorial here), I haven’t got a local source at reasonable prices & anyway, lapped zippers are how I’ve always sewn a zip.

Version three: the Gingham un-sailor dress

Gingham Laurel 1This is the reason I’m posting my Laurels (hahaha –  rather than resting on my laurels!) so near to tomorrow’s deadline.  I have literally finished this one tonight.  The light had gone by the time I took the photos, so they are all indoors.  Ahem, sorry, back to the dress.  The fabric was from Walthamstow the first time I went to a blogger meet up.  It’s cotton & almost like a light flannel.  I had in mind creating a version of Laurel with a sailor collar.  Here it is ..

Sailor Laurel 1Da na!  The collar is completely separate & has been taken from New Look 6808, as used by Zoe recently (thanks Zoe for reminding me I have this pattern!)   Now my creative processes for this dress were continual.  I knew I wanted a splash of red piping, maybe a couple of red buttons too.  But I didn’t start by knowing the effects I was going to implement.  How much piping I was going to use & where was whirring through my mind long after I’d started to sew it.  I had in mind piping the outside of the collar, but clearly didn’t as I felt less is more.

Gingham Laurel 2Pockets?  I didn’t have these in mind until I’d already sewn the front & back darts.  Whilst I opted to make them on the bias to add a nice touch I stabilised by lining them with fabric on the straight grain – so much easier than a. sewing a straight seam with bias cut edges and b. pressing the pocket seam allowances to include a curve.  The pocket flaps are those that came with the Laurel extras, perfect for a pop of red piping.  I tried to use my overlocker’s piping foot to attach the piping because peeps it is *awesome* & gets right up close to the piping.  However, not so good when going around curves, hence the not as perfect as I’d like finish!

Gingham Laurel 3There was clearly a need for piping somewhere in addition to the pocket flaps.  I’d thought about the neckline, but at that stage was not sure how the sailor collar would look with it.  I’d then thought of piping the sleeve hems, but with a cut-out.  This idea came to me when I was on the phone to my Dad – thanks BG – you didn’t know it, but you somehow helped my design process, also shameless inspired by these leggings at Sweaty Betty.  Getting the piping with tie effect was fiddly & involved hand-sewing in front of Sunday night TV.  I also had to draft a facing for the sleeve hem & its cut-out.

Gingham Laurel 4So that’s the back…here is the gingham version in a number of guises ….

Gingham Laurel-001

This will be how I wear it for real folks!

Gingham Laurel backIt’s just such a comfy dress to wear – I reckon perfect for a Sunday dinner – you can hide a lot in that shift shape…

Gingham LaurelI could belt it in if I wanted to, although that does mean that it gets ever shorter …

Sailor Laurel-001Showing the pocket flaps in action…

Sailor Laurel

Good for a giggle, but it’s just *too* dressing up to be taken seriously!  Oh well!  There’s something of the dib dib dib about it too!

So as I said at the beginning I have really enjoyed the challenge this contest brought me at a time when I needed a focus for my sewing.  I am not expecting to win, & [cough] feel I already have the prize: three new quirky dresses!  Roll on summer so I can get wearing them!!

For those of you who made it this far- well done!  I have to say you have staying power….talk about shaggy dog sewing!  Now I’m going to add them to Flickr and admire all the other versions!  What fun.  Good luck to all you fellow contestants.

My Colette Laurel top

I’m just going to plunge in & reveal my affection for Colette Patterns’ newest addition to the awesome collection: Laurel

I know it’s a shift dress & I undoubtedly have plenty of shift dress patterns.  But.  Look on the website there are some rather nice mods to this simple style.  For some reason (might it have anything to do with the competition? ;-)  ) I opted to give it a go.

Laurel 1

I compared the pattern pieces with my tried & tested New Look 6000 which is my “block” now & from experience I know that Colette patterns are usually too big in the back for me & usually bust darts are too high.  How fantastic to have a pattern “block” I tell you!  It makes fitting & anticipating what might need to be done so much easier …

I thought I’d make the top.  But you can see that as I’ve already started with the pics.  By the way, excuse the “slicked ” hair look – I’d just come back from a run, showered etc & the hair is still damp.  It is not a look I take out onto the streets, honest.

Ahem.  Back to the top.  Laurel.  It is such a quick make , even when there are all these stripes to match.  The fabric came from Mandors in Edinburgh & is a buttery glazed cotton.  Such a delight to sew with, but I didn’t want to make any mistakes (who ever actually wants to make mistakes :-s ?) as it seems to be a fabric with memory & I worried it would show any holes left by misadventurous stitching.

Laurel 3Side seams look pretty awesome to me!  The back has a centre back seam, but joy of joys, this top has a big enough neckline for not requiring any zips or buttons (unless of course your hair is too huge to fit)

Laurel 2

Look – there is a seam down the centre back – honest!  So it has bust darts & rear vertical darts for a touch of shaping.  Whilst I am wearing it out-tucked it might appear a bit more tube-like than my usual fitted styles, but it’s a casual top & tell you what it looks adorable with my new red Chardon skirt, tucked in.  Sorry no pics, you’ll have to take my word for it.

Laurel 4

As you’re used to if you have sewn Colette before the instructions are just right, but then remember this is a simple make.  And peeps, no facings, yes, did you hear me there are no facings, just plain old bias binding!   (Or handmade self bias binding which is what I used & boy it looks cute with those diagonal stripes! oops – again I’m teasing as I haven’t taken any photos of that either!) My version, sleeve length, top length etc is just about out of the packet as designed, except (& you can see this a bit on the rear picture above) I did not gather the sleeves but made a few tiny pleats as this fabric is so lovely I didn’t want to create any puncture marks through extra gathering stitches.  (Oh & remember I made adjustments to fit, as expected – narrowing the back & lowering the bust dart)

Laurel 5

I am won over by this pattern, seriously.  There is a lot of scope for individualising it (who me?!) & if the dress is anywhere near as lovely to make as the top….(hint hint, it is! )  I will come back & show you my next Laurel soon …..

A deadline looms….

I’m feeling the pressure peeps, I have a list of gifts to make & I should be sewing like now.

But you know the expression “More haste, less speed”.  Well, I need to breathe deeply & thought a quick blog post the best way to do this.  So not much talking here, a few pics, & I will explain the barrage of unuttered  curses that went through my mind just now….& reveal this week’s most pressing sewing deadline.

Can I show you my scalloped blouseColette Violet?

Here is the Boden blouse that triggered the thought of a scalloped centre front (Oh Roo, you have such fantastic knowledge of what’s out there!)

 

So last time there was the potential disaster of da da da (cue dramatic music) yellow wax edges to the scallops.  the The good news?  I used tons of Vanish to work at the aforementioned yellow traces of dressmaker’s tracing paper before slamming it in the washing machine & it worked!  Yip yip ay yay!

Revealing the back first – I do so love the gathered yoke.  I wear it with a cotton camisole underneath but dear Barbarella is rather an exhibitionist it has to be said.  See that black top hanging on the radiator?   That’s another gift that I shall write about some time (as there were more discoveries with making this!) It’s another Vogue 1247  made with Rag Market viscose.

But onto the front view & the scallops…

See what I mean about the facings showing?  I really hadn’t thought that through.  Mrs C gives some advice on sheer fabrics, facings & seam allowances in the comments to this post here.  I shall revisit them when venturing into using some of the chiffon I have in my stash.

….So why does the idiom, “More haste, less speed” become relevant?  Well after thinking that I had ruined this blouse with yellow waxed tracing paper markings & managing to save it, I rushed to give this lil’ blouse an iron for the photo shoot & gah ….I hate even writing it so annoying is this….the iron was too hot & melted (yes melted) the left front collar.  It has a crispy holeyness about it.  I have never done that before.  It doesn’t show in the above picture, but believe me it is there ….& why?

Well., as I said at the start I am feeling the pressure.  I have only a couple of sewing hours this week to make up a gift for a special little girl & have made a good start …

However will I really manage to find the time?  Recently there has been a squeeze on sewing time due to lovely visitors (in the guise of my grown up boys).  Funnily enough whenever they stay not only do I feel the urge to cook more & clearly need to spend time with them, but their laptops completely screw up my internet access – hence less blogging & blog commenting becomes problematic.   And it also puts the dampeners a little on outfit pics, well those in which I make more of an effort, & believe me I have some planned….but as you know I prefer to have my privacy when letting loose the inner Badger ….

So writing this in some way has not helped my sewing stress.  Although I am now poised to sew, I have burnt my new blouse so badly that I will at some time have to replace the collar, & my much needed beauty sleep draws closer.  Just how much might I have sewn had I not written this?   Oh well,

“After all tomorrow is another day” to quote my heroine.

I think I just might call it a day & go to bed & read!

Red hot chilli: Colette Patterns Ginger skirt

Hurrah!  Pop the corks this post will have links (& many!)  Following all my issues with shockwave/flash crashing in Chrome I have moved across to Firefox & it’s great.  No more problemos & very user friendly for a webnoob like me.  Just thought you’d be glad – no more moaning on that front!  So, sewing it is.  PS The giveawaywayhay post (deliberate typo!) is being penned & just need some photos to launch later it this week, sorry for stringing you along.

Here it is, my second Colette Patterns Ginger skirt.  I had intended it to be a quick & dirty affair making an unlined version using a red linen/ cotton mix, perfect for summer. But then I saw Karen’s holiday Ginger, & saw that she had taken the trouble to line it & thought “Come on Scruffy!  Make an effort!”

I’ve lined my previous Ginger, & found that it could have done with a bit more ease in the lining.  So this time, cutting out the lining I added an extra cm to each side seam to allow for ease of wearing.  I also cut the front on the fold rather than create an additional seam which isn’t needed inside.   Just used gathers to ease the lining to fit at the waistband at the appropriate point in the making up.

I think I’m a bit into petticoats at the moment … look at how I’ve finished it off (& some secret rick rack also! Makes it feel like Christmas!)

The Waistband

This I think deserves a bit of space all to itself.  To avoid the gaping at the top, I referred back to my first Ginger & the alterations I made to it.  Luckily I had transferred these to my pattern pieces & was therefore able to line up & transfer these with the sweetheart waistband that I wanted to make this time.

The top piece is how it is before I made adjustments – the bottom two pieces show the weird wedge I need to take out of this waistband side seams.

** Post edit – please refer to the comment left by Mrs C below to develop this alteration to the next level & make a rounded waistband translating the adjustment evenly across the pieces – it’s a good read!! **

It was weird sewing it though – it seems counter intuitive seeing the angle that the three pieces make when sewn up together.  But it worked, it fits my clearly counter intuitive body shape.

So, to detour again from the “quick & dirty” I felt obliged to add some detailing, to invest some more love into this skirt.  It was worth it I think.  I cut some strips of the skirt fabric on the bias & made piping.  Nothing too obvious, as this skirt is going to be a basic colour blocker, but the piping just makes me feel it is a bit more special.

Since reading Roobeedoo’s note that the waistband in this version can wrinkle I wasn’t sure what I was going to do.  My interfacing, although medium, had already ironed on a bit awkwardly & therefore became my waistband facing (oh, I wasn’t going to admit to that!)  I didn’t want to risk it on the waistband proper in case it ironed on all gunkily again.  All through the construction the need for stiffness (stop sniggering) was niggling me.  Was I going to risk the quality of the skirt for lack of thought & effort?  My fix in the end was to create a template of the space inside the stitching, ie the finished waistband & create a buckram duplicate in the hope that it keeps it standing up right.  It seems to be OK…. but makes a crinkly noise when you move around sitting!

My invisible zip went in fine, piping just about even both sides if you squint.  It’s just the top didn’t finish as neatly as it could, but looks like a design feature.  Perhaps it is because of the piping.

I think this is going to be useful.  I’ve already discovered LOADS of tops that it goes nicely with & today I wore it with my Vintage Vogue jacket no less (it’ll appear in a Me Made May roundup)

Worn here with an old New Look 6808 top in linen…

The perils of long damp grass of a morning ….

Pink elephant Violet Blouse

Am I hallucinating?  Is it real?  What have I taken?  Is this blouse a figment of my imagination, am I in danger of living the “Emperor’s New Clothes”?

New Ellie Violet with my Meringue.  If only I could go to work dressed like this!

But look!  It doesn’t quite look like a little girl’s pajamas.  The Violet blouse has made these elephants grow up, pull their socks up & wipe their long noses.

Rewind a bit – this is the pink elephant fabric from Ditto fabrics and it’s so cool.  I love it also in the navy, but opted for a bright option.  I have a feeling I may go back for the navy though…

image

It has got piping around the collar & along the right front edge. (Love piping!!)  I chose extra large buttons & used bold thread with triple stitching to hem & buttonhole as I thought it aged it even more.

OOops!  Didn’t think about the collar & look!  Upside down drunken ellies at the front (but they are walking the line behind!).

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 I found with this fabric that the ellies were not printed on the straight grain- I had to rip across the width to get the straight grain & was shocked to see how far out the ellies were.  This is why the yoke is skewed.

I only had enough for the short sleeved version, but have to say, having worn my other one lots with elbow length sleeves I do like it lots, and would make it again, but am loving the short sleeves too.  It’s funny, every time I cut this pattern out I have an urge to cut another.  I can see myself making even more of these & have a few ideas lined up.

Lining my Colette Patterns Meringue skirt

This is the inside of my Pinstripe Meringue.

Lining meringue skirt

I’m finding it very hard to contemplate making a skirt without lining it, especially something that will be winter weight & very much dry clean only.  I’ve lined a few skirts so far, & through wear & sometimes even in tear I have learnt along the way.  Undoubtedly it is recommended to use a shiny slippery lining fabric for any skirts that you will be wearing with tights.  My cherry red Beignet (wool)  is made with a cotton lining & it drags on tights – & on long walks into town actually ends up spun around & hiked up round my pants- not ideal & actually is more comfy with a slippy slip.  And then I’ve made the mistake of not allowing any extra ease in the lining resulting in the inside seams pulling/ fraying a bit when the fabric is a bit delicate.  And that’s such a shame.

So, I have Edinburgh & the Crafter’s Ceilidh to thank for a. putting me in touch with Alanna from Lazy Stitching who recently posted about lining her skirt with some extra ease & slightly gathering the lining to the waistband.  That was such a well timed post, thank you Alanna!  Edinburgh also provided me with the opportunity to purchase a couple of lining fabrics, with a wonderful emerald green shiny lustrous poly lining & the magenta version you see above.

Hoorah!

But making the Meringue with a lining was not straightforward & required a few attempts & a little bit of brain work.  And think I did.  Should I cut the hem facing, or should the lining duplicate (with extra ease) the skirt pieces?  I opted for the latter approach, although I think this was the possibly the route less travelled.  But, cut skirt pieces I did in lining adding an extra couple of inches to the width.  I did not cut a hem facing.

More thinking was then undertaken – the sawdust was smouldering I tell you – to work out the order for sewing, trying to understand the feasibility of being able to get at the hem + lining to attach both through scallops as well as being able to attach the invisible zipper & machine sew the lining to the zipper (using the Colette Patterns approach).  I’d worked out that it would be possible, if a little skirt contorting, to insert the zipper before the hem.  Sewing the invisible zipper worked out fine – I could attach the lining via the machine stitched route (as shown in the Handbook & on the Colete Patterns website).  This was done before attaching the lining to the skirt at the hem.    

MERINGUE INSIDE PEEK

But it was the length of the hem that was the problem.  Alert!!  Lining this skirt is tricksty this way!  If it wasn’t for my Valentine, Barbarella I don’t know how I would have managed.  Getting Barbs to model it I could see that the length of the lining was pulling up the hem in a minor (but unacceptable) pseudo puffball effect along the scallops.

I would not have seen this very well when wearing it – possibly only noticing it as I was taking photos to post on the blog (how frustrating would that have been?!)  The picture above shows the first attempt at a finished skirt before I recast the waistband.  It was actually complete & wearable (if you go for puffballs that is!)  What is happening is that the lining & the skirt were hanging at slightly different lengths & the lining, being a bit too short was pulling the skirt to “bag” at the scallops.   Usually with a lined skirt the skirt & lining are only attached at the waist (& zip) & from there hang interdependently of each other at the hem.  With this skirt, the lining & the skirt are attached at both waist & hem & if their relative lengths are at odds with each other this happens.

Gosh was it an effort getting this right.  I tried hanging it upside down by its scallops to get the length equal.  That resulted in some of the hem being OK, but not all, so it ended up being worked as a three phase hem.  What worked best for me was to use Barbs & to work my way up from the hem to the part of the waistband that needed shifting.  Working on a 3D form was more successful than the coat hanger approach above!  But – hoorah! Barbs was most helpful, & as I said, she saved my Sewniverse.

Now, it made me think how should I have done this?  What if I didn’t have a dress form?  In the comments to the last post lovely Lauren from LLadybird (whose awesome piped Meringue I remember gushing over) let the secret slip out.  Avoid all the pain of this by 1. using the hem facing as usual & 2. lining the skirt as normal with an inside lining attached at the waistband but loose at the hem.  You can of course make the facing out of lining fabric to gain that splash of oo la la should you wish.  Should have checked that out before I started.  Simples.