manly scarf #debsknittingchallenge

A Manly Scarf for #debsknittingchallenge

A few months ago I was asked if I’d like to take part in a knitting challenge – namely to knit something up for a special man in my life for Christmas.  Strangely the challenge came from Debenhams, a department store, selling amongst other things, all sorts of knitted things for men, & women, grown up & young, and not somewhere I associated with handknitting & crafting.   But I said yes, especially as they offered to contribute towards my supplies.   And especially since it gave me an idea about what to do for someone who is usually difficult to buy for, my Dad.  He seems to have everything he needs, and what’s even more tricky, is that it’s his birthday close to Christmas as well, a sure test of the well of inspiration.

manly scarf #debsknittingchallenge

Now I am not known for my knitting prowess, as recently mentioned.  So I was modest & realistic in my choice of project :  a scarf in something soft & *manly*.  The Manly Scarf #3  by Luise O’Neil caught my eye – an interesting stitch combo to give texture (it’s a kind of herringbone) – but not beyond the skills of the Badger.

Manly scarf #debsknittingchallenge

It has a four row pattern repeat which I just about got to grips with half way in & found my own rhythm for remembering where I was mid-row.   Before this stage, if I lost my place, I tended to rip out the whole row as I really couldn’t tell by looking, what place in the row I had got to.

manly scarf #debsknittingchallenge

I chose a gorgeous brown/ grey tweed effect yarn, an acrylic, Caron Simply Soft Paints in ‘sticks & stones’ – a perfect choice for my Dad & his Tweed.  Being acrylic it’s soft  against the skin too, as it has to be if I have any chance of it being worn….

manly scarf

It knitted up as about 270 rows, and I have to say I really enjoyed the night time knitting on the sofa in front of the TV.  It also accompanied me on a few train journeys.  It watched a series of Breaking Bad with me & it  joined Man Men series 5 (got a lot of catching up to do!)

manly scarf #debsknittingchallenge

I loved blocking it in daylight & seeing the resulting textures brought about by the yarn combo & stitch.


manly scarf #debsknittingchallenge

Hopefully my Dad will miss this post before he gets it wrapped up & presented to him for Christmas …I love the idea that I have made him something that he can get snuggled with (in a very manly way of course)!

I’m looking forward to seeing other #debsknittingchallenge offerings & there is some kind of surprise…& the name of Patrick Grant was also used to lure us in ….who knows?!  Anyway 14th December is the deadline for the reveal – just got my photos done in time…

Comparing three Bronte tops

I was a bit late to join the Bronte top brigade, but am I glad that I did?

The Bronte top by Jennifer Lauren, as you may be aware,is designed for knits, and its most defining characteristic is the cutest envelope neck – well that’s what I call it, reminiscent of baby vests. This neckline is so flattering!  But it is also a joy to sew (but more of that later).   The top is designed to enhance your natural assets, & is shaped to accentuate your waist, rather than a straight down tshirt.  Narrowish sleeves – I made the long sleeved version as this is a winter top for me, it was destined to provide some good solids for wearing throughout the season, and allow me to keep my print skirts in rotation.

Bronte topBronte topBronte top

I have made this three times, out of three different jerseys and what I found intriguing is how they all behaved differently.  Well of course that is not rocket science, but when I was choosing my fabrics online, I did not think about performance, I just assumed they would all fit the bill.   [Hint, they did not!!!]   I chose them all from Minerva, having made things previously out of Minerva jersey, which can be incredibly reasonably priced, the scrooge in me hunted out some more interesting looking jersey bargains.

I used this blue viscose jersey, a red jersey, and an ecru jersey with an interesting texture.

Bronte top

My first Bronte top was made using the blue & was a huge success.  The neckline is such a clever feature – not only looking darn cute but also if you are a tshirt newb, it’s a great way to get the neckband on without the hassle of “how much stretch” as the neck band is attached as one of the first steps – to the front & back separately.  My only frustration in sewing it, was in using my Coverstitch machine to top stitch the seam allowance down – my machine (OK, I shouldn’t blame my machine, but the person steering it!) did not want to keep straight & neat, so I have to say I avoided this step in my next versions, no topstitching at all, just a hearty press with the iron.

Bronte top


If it wasn’t for my Coverstitch issues, my blue Bronte top would have been a very quick make.  The sleeves are inserted flat, then sewn closed with the side seams.  I forgave my Coverstitch machine enough to allow it to hem the sleeves and top itself, and it did that without fuss (thank goodness).    Apart from hems, I sewed all of it with my overlocker.

The neckline is secured using invisible stitches or buttons.  Any opportunity to add a pop of button would not be avoided by me.  Red in the case of the blue top, seeking suitable candidates from my button jar.

Bronte top

So feeling plumped up on how well the Bronte goes together, and how well it fits (nice length too, both sleeves and body will certainly keep me sung this winter), I cut out two more, the red and the ecru.  If they were closer in colour, I would have sewn them in parallel, such was the confidence I had in blasting through their construction quickly.  But overlocker threads were from two extreme colour groups, I had to sew in series.  The red was the next one to be made, and without the Coverstitch fuss proved that this really is a quick make – an hour and a half tops.    The fabric had a dense quality to it – I thought it would be nice & cosy as I was making it.

Bronte top

I then made the ecru version, and was really loving the fabric.  I used the wrong side as the right side, so that it’s got more nubbly texture on show.  Attaching buttons was the last step, and something I hadn’t quite got to when I took these photos (it was pre hem too).

So what I found was that the red Bronte top is like a straight jacket!

Bronte top

The sleeves are like plastercasts !  hahaha!

Bronte top

You see I made no reference to its stretch factor.  This fabric is pretty stable, or certainly stable enough to not want to give in the right places for a body flattering top like the Bronte top.

Bronte top

How I chuckled when I realised my mistake.  I have only tried to wear it for an afternoon, and then couldn’t wait to change out of it.  Maybe it’ll be better with short sleeves.

Bronte top

The ecru version though has loads of room & is very comfy to wear.

Bronte top

If anything it has come out slightly larger than the blue one.   It just goes to show that this thing I have about not all fabric behaves the same,  is something that I continue to fall foul of!!  I’m not the only one am I?

Cherie Boot, Cabaret Singer in the making

Bonjour mes amis.  Je m’appelle Cherie, Cherie Boot.  I ‘av ‘ad to sew the clothes for the party of my son, ‘e ‘ad a party of the Murder Mystery.  Tous le monde were zer, 1946 Casablanca.

We ‘ad far too much to drink, and not enough of the sleeping, mais un bon moment was ‘ad by all.  I thought you would like to see the costume de Cherie.

Cherie Boot

I had Marlene in my minds eye, as I was given instructions that my character was a French singer in the Cabaret, but with an androgynous styling.  My aim was to make an outfit that would pass for dress of the fancy, but did not have the time to get the finish perfect.

Cherie Boot

I found some 38″ waist men’s dress trousers and this size 18 ladies jacket in Shops of Charity.    I had an old 1960s shirt of the man of the dinner and made myself a flower from organza for the lapel.

This is what the clothes looked like at the start.

38" mens trousersThe jacket next, front and back

Size 18 jacketSize 18 jacket It wasn’t quite so huge as the men’s jackets I was trying on in the Shops of Charity.  Here they are together – I don’t think Cherie would get many gigs looking like this…

Jacket and trousersI have been so inspired by Sally from Charity Shop Chic, if it wasn’t for her I would have not unpicked linings,getting to the guts of the garments to make adjustments, new seams and so on.

My Maman she helped me pin the extra so it fitted me better.

Trouser adjustments

She showed me that I only needed to make a new back seam in the trousers of the man.

Trouser alterations

Trouser alterations

Trouser alterations

I could use the buckles to make it even smaller at the waist.

Waist buckles

And I did also narrow the legs in the seams of the inside leg- I wanted to keep the outside leg seams untouched so that the fancy stripe would remain.

The jacket, I took a grand pleat out of the centre of its back.

Jacket adjustmentsI made the sewing once I had unpicked the lining to get inside the seams.

Jackey alterations

I also moved the buttons across the body,

Buttons moving

Sewing bigger darts

and made the darts deeper and longer in the front.  There are pockets at the hips that make it difficile to get a fit more snug.  Also, I could only make the waist a little more smaller at the sides without affecting the sleeves.

But I was happy.  I also wore the tie I made.  The flower was the last thing I made using the candle to curl the petals of the flower.


The eyelashes were the last things I bought….


But just look at my roots!


Slipper socks – of the knitted variety

I’m knitting up a storm, well in relative Badger terms. I am not an accomplished knitter, as you know by the absence of any regular features on my knitting productivity, however at this time of year I do seem to be knitting more than at any other time of the year.


Some are gifts, and I just cannot resist ! My golden rule is that it has to look simple to knit.   I have learnt from experience that when I come across instructions in knitting patterns that baffle me, that it adds a good three months minimum to the expected completion date.  I become paralysed by the prospect of understanding something new.

But as for a simple make- how about these Slipper socks from Bergere de France. I have only just cast them on, with a cute 9 stitches for the tongue and feel that making these in time for Christmas is most definitely achievable. But even if I don’t give them away I have sneakily chosen something that I’d wear myself, should replacement of my current stinky slipper socks be more deserving.

slipper socks

I feel a great internal dialogue persisting about whether I keep them or give them away!

All of the pieces are available to buy at this link, buttons, the special suede sole, and of course funky colours. I fancied green stripes & boy, they are going to be bright! Now I am just waiting for my 6mm needles to get delivered ……my fingers are itching – there is nothing like a winter’s evening watching a film with knitting on the go.

And just to prove that I do finish stuff, here is a preview of something I started *quite a few months ago*

Light wavesMy “Lightwaves” Shawlette.  You see it’s knitted with “short rows” (automatically add several months delay as I was sent into uber limboland before attempting that particular process) & then add another four weeks as it lingered whilst I made the effort to find out about blocking.  I will provide more of a write up about it when the light is better & I can work out how I best like wearing it.  But, I do finish my knits!

Knitting for gifts though, seems so much more achievable- maybe it’s because I am choosing simpler accessories?  I shall keep you posted.   What do you think?  Are you in a knitting frenzy at the moment?

Disclosure, I have been sent the slipper sock kit to review by Bergere de France, but clearly am too early in the process to tell you anything more. Next time I will tell you whether I am keeping them for myself or not!!

Kindle cover

Gift idea? Kindle cover tutorial with extras!

Here’s another gift idea – a kindle or e-book reader cover – or as I like to call it, a Kindle Sleeping bag because it is padded & feels snug. I should really call it a “device” though, so therefore I will going forwards. This tutorial is of my own devising & I had a few ideas to incorporate into my design.

Kindle cover tutorial

This “device” sleeping bag has an optional glasses pocket for reading glasses. I have reading glasses all over my house & this pair lives by the side of my bed, in my device cover. It came about because I always tended to slot my reading glasses into the top of my previous kindle cover & was cautious I didn’t scratch its surface. Wouldn’t it be practical to have a pocket to keep glasses with device, I thought & so here it is. If you don’t want the glasses pocket, just leave out those steps. I’ve put my glasses pocket on the other side to the button & tab, but you may want to swap this around & have the pocket & button on the same side.

E book cover tab

I made a version without a glasses pocket as well. Both versions are padded with cotton batting or wadding & have a tab and button to secure the device inside.

E book cover

I’ve used ric rac to embellish the tops of my pocket and the cover itself (of course!)

You will need:

  • Some fabric – this is a great scrap buster;
  • Some wadding or batting
  • Ric Rac – I used very small ric rac, but I would recommend slightly larger ric rac as it would be easier to work with.
  • A button
  • Thread to match.
  • All your usual sewing tools: scissors, pins etc


I am using a selection of fabrics that had been put into a lovely Fat Quarter bundles- clever things, those- someone’s already done all the hard work of putting fabrics together that coordinate. I loved the colours & combinations in this bundle. It’s Michael Miller, Deer Floral Navy using this fabric, a bit of this and then lined with this Kiss dot magenta, and the folk at Elephant in My Handbag gave me the FQs to have a play around with, & this tutorial is the result!

Have a think about what fabric combos you are aiming for – how you will mix up your fabrics. One of my cases has a back the same fabric as the lining (polka dots). The other uses three coordinating fabrics, with polka dots lining both the glasses pocket & the cover itself.

So let’s start

Cutting out

Trace around your device & add a good 1.5cm to account for a little ease to get your device inside, including a 1cm seam allowance.

step 1

Depending on how you combine your fabric you will need to end up with:

  • Two pieces to make up the outer front & back
  • Two pieces for the lining
  • A piece 7.5cm x 12cm for the tab
  • Two pieces of Batting or wadding the same size as the front/ back.

Optional glasses pocket:

One piece of fabric plus lining plus wadding – all the same size. The size of the fabric I used for my glasses case was about 12cm wide by 17cm long, but I would recommend layering fabric with wadding to wrap around your glasses to get an approximate size – remember to add 1cm for seam allowances around all four sides.  You fine tune the size you need later on as you sew it.

glasses pocket

Once you have cut your fabric and wadding, it’s time to get sewing.


Optional glasses pocket:

To add ric rac to the top seam as scalloped piping, first of all mark the seam line by sewing a long straight machine stitch 1cm from the edge of the pocket (this is so quick & easy by machine, but you could mark it anyway you want to- chalk, with a ruler, as you go).

step 2

Then hand baste the ric rac to this line, on the right side, so that the centre of the ric rac covers this machine basted line.

step 3 Place the batting to the wrong side of the pocket lining & hand baste in place.

Place the pocket lining right sides facing the right side of the pocket and pin together through all layers (& ric rac).

step 4Looking at the pocket, with the wrong side of the outer fabric facing up, sew the left hand vertical seam and the top of the pocket through all layers with a 1cm seam allowance.  (This left hand seam is actually the right hand edge of the pocket that you see in the middle of the cover)

Clip corners, turn, then press (get your ric rac snappy & crisp away from the top). Remove basting stitches.

You might want to baste the as yet unsewn edges together – the left hand edge and the bottom edge, to keep all of the layers together in the right place.

Moving onto the cover.

These instructions are for the version with the pocket & button on different sides of the cover. Swap it around if you want to make it differently.

Button tab:

step 6

Fold the fabric in half right sides together, decide how wide you want your tab to be, then sew along the long edge & stitch along the long raw edge & then across the bottom edge – you could sew horizontally, or at a jaunty angle !

step 7

Turn it the right way out & press. Make a buttonhole on it that is the right size for your button.

Front cover:

To add ric rac to the top seam as scalloped piping, follow the same process as for the glasses pocket top – first of all mark the seam line by sewing a long straight machine stitch 1cm from the edge. Then hand baste the ric rac to this line, on the right side, so that the centre of the ric rac covers this machine basted line.

step 8

Place the batting to the wrong side of the lining & baste in place.  (I actually basted my batting to the cover fabric which is why the ric rac shows, but you have better sight of the ric rac basting lines as a guide for your top “piped” seam if you attach the batting to the lining.)

Place the front lining right sides facing the right side of the cover and pin together. Sew the top edge of the cover through all of the layers. Turn, then press, removing basting stitches.

Back cover:

Add ric rac in the same way as above, but once you have handbasted the ric rac to the back, mark the centre. Put the tab in place, using the marked centre to show where to locate it. The buttonhole should be at the bottom, the tab’s raw edge, at the top. Secure this with a couple of basting stitches or pin perpendicular to the edge.

step 9

Add the lining, right sides facing the right side of the back cover, pinning in place. Stitch along the seamline through all layers, catching the tab & the ric rac all in one go.

step 10

Turn to the right side and press, removing basting stitches.

Optional glasses pocket:

Work on the cover keeping the lining well out of the way, for all of this section. Place wrong side of pocket (ie lining) touching the right side of the cover, place the left hand corner & edge of the pocket onto the left hand & lower edge of the back cover & pin the left hand edge.

step 11

If you want, you can machine baste the left edge through all layers with a long stitch within the seam allowance, or keep the pins in like lazy me. Then get your glasses & place them inside the pocket to work out where the right hand edge of the pocket needs to be stitched. Create the right size pocket for your glasses to keep them snug. Pin this edge, take out your glasses & straighten it up to make sure it is at right angles to the bottom hem. Stitch the right hand pocket edge through all layers, keeping the lining out of the way – you don’t want to stitch through the cover’s lining.

You should now have a glasses “tube” attached to the cover, with two open ends.

step 12

Make a couple of pleats in this bottom edge to pin out the excess pocket width at this edge to the cover below. Baste this in place through the layers.

Device cover:

Give the pieces a bit of a press, pressing the seam allowances down towards the outer cover (ie away from the lining) but make sure the ric rac is facing away from the seam allowance, towards the lining (so that it sticks out like scallops when it’s all complete)

step 13

Right sides facing, place the linings together and cover front & back together, matching at the central seam.

step 14

This is an important seam to match, as it will be at the top of your device cover. You need to make sure that the seam allowance is pressed down towards the cover, not the lining and that the ric rac is positioned upwards towards the lining.

Leaving a 4 or 5” gap at the bottom of the lining to turn your cover through later, sew all around the edges of the device cover.

step 15

Clip corners and turn through the gap in the lining. Using a point turner get your corners as pointy as you can – there is a lot of padding in the cover, so you won’t get such sharp results as usual.

step 16

Remember to get your lining corners pointy too. Press the cover & lining, including the seam allowances for the gap in the lining.

step 17

Edge stitch the gap closed, then push the lining back inside the cover.

E book cover

Put your device inside then decide where you want your button sewn on. Mark it then sew it on.

Kindle cover

All done, your device now has a lovely new home.  OR you could make one for keeping someone else’s device safe & cosy!

Pussy Bow Blouse

Sew Not Over It! Pussy Bow Blouse and Ultimate Trousers

It has to be said that I have taken a long time to photograph my last pair of Ultimate trousers, despite them being more successful fit-wise than the previous pair.  The fabric was given to me by the resourceful Claire (Sew Incidentally ) many moons back at a Birmingham meet up.  It’s gorgeous quality, a suiting in what I call a mole colour & it is sleek to the touch and has some stretch to it as well.  Not my usual colour, but I just love browns with turquoise.  Another winning combo, but then anything with turquoise goes as far as I’m concerned.

Pussy Bow Blouse

Let’s just check out those Ultimate trousers shall we before we move swiftly on … they caused me no trouble sewing them up, & were a whizz bang pair of Ultimates.  Do they look summery to you?  I was wearing them last week – OK with turquoise shoes – & was told that I looked very summery – in November!

Ultimate trousers

OK that’s enough.  They’re useful, comfy & I love them….let’s get onto the turquoise.  And hey, this is not just any ol’ turquoise.  This is a dream of a fabric, with polka dots and shiny silkiness, from Sew Over It’s Islington‘s remnants bin.  It’s a polyester and feels like a light crepe de chine, but what do I know?  It could be similar to this, but don’t take my word for it.

Just because it was a remnant, doesn’t mean that it was junk, it was a quality 2 metre piece & had my name all over it.  When I visited Sew Over It’s parma violet painted shop, I have to say I reverted to “child in sweet shop”, such was the temptation.  I confess to spending more than I should, but it felt like Monopoly money, & I lost any sense of self control, snapping up the Pussy Bow blouse pattern too (& some fabric for my 1940s tea dress & another jersey remnant too.  Shhh.  Don’t make me feel any more guilty!).

Pussy Bow blouse

Now if you’ve read previous posts you know I have a thing for the Pussy Bow, & had just been inspired by how a Pussy bow blouse, made of the right fabric, can be dressed down with jeans & is not necessarily strictly for the office.  Karen & I got to fondle one of Lisa’s blouses that she had made up as a sample, out of navy georgette or chiffon.

Pussy bow blouse

It was upon spying the details – the rouleaux fastened slimline cuffs for example that we swooned a little, then both caved.

Pussy Bow Blouse

So this fabric and pattern were burning a hole in my consciousness.  If I didn’t make it up soon, I was in danger of becoming an unrequited obsessive, even though it so did not feature in my current sewing plan (which is quite heavily gift oriented at the moment).  So selfish urges were satisfied & I just got on with it.  It’s designed with plenty of ease, & I cut out the 8- according to my bust measurement & went for version 2, the v neck version.  This turned out just fine, fit-wise.

Pussy bow blouse

It must have taken a few hours to make, so my selfish streak did not last too long.  There are no fastenings, you just pop this pop over your head, so that makes the bodice come together nice & quickly.  Before you know it, you are attaching the tie neck.  The pattern instructions were very clear about how to do this if you haven’t done it before.  The fabric being silky (but with a slight crepey feel to it) did not cause me any issues sewing, (I always use a walking foot though) & I took my time sewing the neck facing & cuffs down by hand.  I could have sewn French Seams throughout, but  after having recently made a gent’s shirt & French seamed it to then make faux lapped seams I just couldn’t be bothered.  Lisa’s sample had been overlocked so that convinced me & I do not regret it- my overlocker gives such a nice finish anyway.  There are times when a French Seam feels the right thing to do, & times when you just lose the halo.

Ultimate trousers

Little discussion on this blog post about the Ultimate Trousers, but I am pleased with them

What else do you need to know?  The sleeves have gathers at the cuffs at the top (so cute) & also to ease them into the arm hole – but they are not overly pouffy at the sleeve head – the kind of sleeves I like.

*Something I have added since writing – check out the Pussy Bow blouse Sewalong over at SewOverIt’s blog here.*

Pussy bow blouse

This blouse has been down to London town and worn with jeans to see Morrissey.  Of course I had noodles & managed to splatter soy sauce amongst its polka dots.  But I LOVE it.  I did not feel “Dog Toby” as Jane would say.  It was a wise purchase, one of those investment buys that feels naughty at the time, but that pays dividends in being a firm wardrobe favorite.   And I can see some future blouses in solids using this pattern.

Pussy Bow blouse

I think this could be something I try harder at next year – making investment buys to sew *just right* garments.  And making sure I sew them, & don’t leave them shrouded in tissue paper in my “special” drawer.  What do you think?  More investment pieces?  Maybe that’s how you sew already?  If so, do you have a mantra that could help me shift my fabric buying & sewing behaviour??  I’m interested to know what works for you?!  It’s time for a change!

Peg bag

Papa’s got a brand new Peg Bag

The title’s showing my age, but this is something that I made as a gift earlier this autumn, and thought to take photos as I did it, to make into a photo story tutorial.    I made it specifically for the friend who has everything…it seemed….except she was using a poly bag for her clothes pegs.  Inspiration struck & I sourced fabric that I thought she would like.  IMG_1994

So my design was heavily inspired by this peg bag & how to at Better Homes & Gardens.  There is even a downloadable template (which I ignored in my ignorance & need for speed- resulting in a peg bag that could do with a bit more depth – learn from my mistake!).

Peg bag back.

I was fully intent on following the instructions, but when I came to read them I got too lost, so just made it up as I went along, taking photos to record my process.

Peg bag suppliesFor my pegbag I gathered supplies: outer fabric (using this Robert Kaufman Owls fabric which I bought especially) and lining – I had some polka dot in my stash, which I thought might look like starry night sky peeping through the hole.  Of course I had to use ric rac too.   I think you can get away with half a metre of each fabric- lining & outer for making a peg bag.

You will need a clothes hanger as well.

Peg bag templateI drew my template out freestyle, using the coat hanger as a starting point for the top & width, making it symmetrical, adding seam allowances.  The back & the front are exactly the same, except the front has a hole in the centre for accessing your pegs.  But why not use the template already available at the link already mentioned.  Then your bag will be deep enough ;-)

Fabric piecesCut out a front & a back for the outer fabric and the same for the lining.

Cutting the circleThis is how I cut the central circles out.

Basting seamlineUsing a long stitch length, sew around the circular hole at the seamline – this is to mark where you want to place your ric rac.  If you are not using ric rac, then ignore these next steps.

Ric rac placementBaste the ric rac around the hole over the top of your basting stitches.  At the ends (see at the top) bring them in to the inside with an overlap.

Sewing the lining to the outer Putting the lining front right sides together with the outer, pin then sew the two together at the circle, stitching on top of the stitches that are basting the ric rac to the outer fabric.

Clip curvesClip all around the curved edge.

PressTurn to the right side, admire a bit, take out the basting stitches, press, then admire some more.  Then get back to it.  You’re not finished yet.

Clip topAt the top of the back, in the centre, make a neatly finished hole for the hanger to poke through.  I made a hole in both the back lining & the back itself, to make it neat with no raw edges.

Backs togetherNext you need to treat the lining and the outer bag as two separate entities, even though they are joined at the ric rac circle.  Putting the lining back & front right sides together, stitch all around the outside,

GapBut leave a gap, about 5″ long at the bottom so that you can turn it later, and get the hanger in!  And you will also need to leave a small gap at the top.

HoleNote though that for the top of both the lining and the outer bag you need to leave a gap where you have already left access for the hanger.

StitchStitch the outer bag to front bag right sides together all around the outside – no need to leave a gap except for the top.

Insert hangerTime for some hanger gymnastics!  Insert the hanger, in between the lining & the outer fabric & get it into place.

Pin the gapWhen you are happy you’ve got the hanger in the right place, pin the gap in the bottom lining closed, then edge stitch by machine close to the seam edge, but making sure you keep the outer bag out of the way when you sew.

Closing the liningI found that my lining was at the mercy of gravity and wanted to bag out & not stay where it was supposed to!

Stitch the gapMoving the hanger out of the way, I attached the lining to the outer at the “shoulders” or the top of the peg bag by pinning them together at this seam & “stitching in the ditch”  (ie sewing a straight seam in the channel created by the existing seam) through the layers – both the outer fabric and the lining.  This keeps the lining in the right place, but also in an inconspicuous way.

Peg bagAdd clothes pegs & enjoy!

Maybe you know someone who has everything apart from a cheerful clothes peg bag?  Possible Christmas gift?

Duathlon capris

Funki runners #2

It’s more funki runners! Enter the peacock pair and matching sportsbra (read on below, you think I’m showing that at the top of this post?)

Duathlon and OliviaAnyone remember the Green Goddess?

I did warn you back when I shared my first pair of Funkis that there were more delights to come, and here is part two. Again, disclosure- Funki Fabrics sent me this fabric to review.

Again, I made the Capri length Duathlon leggings by Fehr Trade since, as you know, it’s such a damn fine pattern- pocket for iphone & keys. Dead quick sew. Love them ordinarily but in PEACOCK feathers? Adoration!!


I have been running & done workouts a few times in the pair of leggings I made first & they have been excellent in terms of comfort & get lots of comments! And I wore these this week for an early morning 7am “assault session” (kind of circuits, different every week), having got them out the night before did not really think about them as I blearily put them on at 630am & headed down to my group.  It did not occur to me how others’ bleary eyes would be assaulted by my peacocks hehehe!  They got noticed!  I think it was before I had even got a “hello” there was a “wow”  they’re cool!  You made them, right?!”

I don’t know about you, but when I make exercise wear I am interested in using performance fabrics that wick moisture away from your bod.   I have not yet put my roseskin pair to the test in temperatures other than our mild October temperatures we have been experiencing, so do not feel qualified to have any observations about how they perform in heat or even in colder conditions.


Melissa is happy to wear non technical fabrics for anything up to a half marathon, so that’s a good rule of thumb for me. I am considering making exercise wear in different lengths for different conditions – so am planning to make a short pair of running leggings for the summer (thigh length), whilst also planning a long ankle length pair for the winter (my next make!).  The two pairs I have made so far, including this pair, are capri length which is ideal for autumn.

Duathlon (7)Using that flash of solid makes it easier to find the pocket!

 I am told that the Funki fabric is not technically wicking (which I thought anyway) – however, it is superb quality- it feels so nice & soft against the skin & its stretch and recovery is superb. They’ve recently got a blog post on exercise wear, here.  The fabric is printed on demand & from what I’ve seen & how it’s worn to date, the printing is quality printing- it doesn’t stretch out & doesn’t fade (so far). So just as a tiny technical update on the fabric from the suppliers, it’s ultra chlorine resistant, pilling resistant, excellent UV protection, shape retention with two way stretch.   Interesting – makes me think this would be superb swimsuit fabric. Hmmm.

Jalie 2563 It could be a swimsuit, but why does it feel so exposing?

And there was enough left over to have a go at making a sportsbra using Jalie 2563. I tried it on as I was making it so that I got as snug a fit as possible to squash them bewbs down (& I think it’s successful). This is a good shaped top with a racer back so it’ll be interesting to see how it performs in the field as it were.

Jalie 2563

I meant to give it a go before writing about it, but sadly didn’t get around to it, just been jumping around in the house to test the bounce. It’s true. But may I stress….this will not see the light of day – it is purely underneathies that could reveal a bit of strap, not more, under a baggy vest perhaps. I am definitely not going cropped out in the big bad world where I cannot crop out the bits I’d rather leave out.


Now what about the green top? Well that’s another Olivia oversized tee from Maria Denmark patterns. I have made this quite a few times as I find it a really comfy exercise top – dolman sleeves, baggy enough with a waistband. Its’ made out of wicking “mock eyelet” that I bought from UKFabricsonline. Good price.  This week’s training I wore my magenta Olivia with these peacocks & I have to say it looked even more awesome than the green combo.

This fabric makes me so happy, can you tell???!

And thanks for the advice on the overlocker blade change – it appears it takes two screws.  I shall be on it!

Hudson Pants

Arctic Hudson Pants

Oh my, I cannot believe that it’s been over a week since I last posted anything on my blog.  You know that means that I’ve had serious stuff taking me away from fun.  And it’s true.  I always knew November was going to spawn a monster (to quote the Moz – who, incidentally I shall be seeing later this week- oh yeah!!  For a few hours on Saturday I shall be a head over heels obsessive) And yes, the monster was just a heavy work month which impacted my energy levels & time to be creative, but is now behind me.  Go monster, back to where you belong, a hostage to kindness and all that.  So let’s have it.  Let’s get this show back on the road.  And what better make to showcase than my successful winter version of the Hudson Pants.

Hudson Pants

You see I’m feeling a bit lazy (& tired, or should that be tired & as a result lazy? ) at the moment, and seem to be grabbing the same clothes to wear at home. And as I am working from home more these days, that also means that my sartorial elegance during the week has taken a nose dive, but still rather a handmade nose dive & one that could be argued still has elements of style & colour for all that I am favouring my Jamie jeans and “joggers”.

Hudson pants

It’s these new “joggers” that I am going to share here , since I made them aaages ago. Of course they are going to be more stylish than your usual sweat pants as they are the Hudson pants, neat design, tapered legs with a cuff & cute front pockets – all crying out for use of contrast to perk them up. So I started with some extremely warm fluffy fleece backed sweatshirting from UKfabricsonline (very reasonable price) & wanted to try out some of the ribbing at Plush Addict, as I had never used it & had seen people put it around neckbands & was rather curious.

Hudson pants

(And there are sooo many colours to choose from folks!)

Hudson cuffs

So grey sweatshirting already bought, I opted for the turquoise ribbing. Of course. When it arrived I was immediately captivated by how soft it is, but that’s by the by.  And when you’re using it for cuffs & waistbands, a little goes a long way, so I think I ordered a metre of this lovely stuff & have plentiful supplies now for other neckbands & waistbands, cuffs, the lot!

Hudson Pants

So having made the Hudsons before in floral jersey, (which were also my go-to come home from work change of clothing) I felt optimistic about making a longer length version.   Due to limited stretch with the jersey I was careful to sew smaller seam allowances, wondering if I should have gone up a size (which I didn’t & it was all fine).  Foolishly I managed to sew the pockets wrong (too cocky by half) & had to unpick & watch my notches. But that was all that emerged as an issue …until I got to the waistband. You might think it looks a bit uneven & dare I say lumpy & shoddy? Well, my overlocker really didn’t like dealing with the many layers of thick fleecy fabric – sewing the waistband ribbing onto three layers of sweatshirting at parts of the pockets was not its idea of fun, & it told me so in its deeds.

Hudson pantsIt really did not like sewing through all that.  It was not pretty.  And is still not particularly pretty.

I almost looked into changing the blade, but that would have been extreme serger maintenance, although possibly it’s time by now. It has seen many thousands of serger miles. Any advice on serger / overlocker blade sharpening?

Hudson PantsAs for these Hudsons, gee whiz, but they are cosy & comfy. I don’t feel as if they are particularly flattering, but who cares. They wrap themselves around my legs & I feel fully blanketed up. This is thick sweatshirting & it feels as if I am wearing tights plus trousers, that’s how warm my legs are, when snuggled in these narrow legged trousers. I love the turquoise details, even though I can’t bring myself to look too closely at the waistband. I think turquoise lifts what would otherwise be too boring a pair of sweats, I mean grey deserves to have some fun, doesn’t it?

So, how many pairs of these do I need if I am relying on them to see me through my autumn/ winter evenings, that is the question!

And, any thoughts on overlocker/ serger blades, please let me know! Thank you….

clemence skirt

This is a Clemence skirt

Such a simple skirt, the Clemence from Love at First Stitch.  In theory I’ve already plenty of almost-Clemences under my belt since it is essentially a gathered skirt with a waistband & side seam pockets.   But being part of the Love at First Stitch programme for developing confidence in your sewing skills, a skirt like the Clemence skirt was bound to feature as a good way to learn gathering, mastering waistbands & side seam pockets as well as putting in a zip.

clemence skirt

However, whilst I have made plenty of almost-Clemences in my time, this is the first with the personality of Clemence, owed to that ultra wide waistband.  That is what makes Clemence stand apart from the usual gathered skirt, & that is the feature that makes my skirt a true Clemence.  And I used the pocket pattern piece, because why not, when it is there for you?  But the rest of the pattern is defined by measurements & cutting the right sized rectangles for a front & two backs, which I didn’t follow.

clemence skirtUnplanned to be out of focus – but I like it- sort of matches the weather

I was lazy & just maximised the pieces I could get out of the available fabric, which I have to say is glorious, isn’t it?  It was so kindly given to me by Hannah from Sinbad & Sailor & I reckon it’s silk.  So lush does it hang & swing & feel to the touch.  I know, I know, I should do a burn test to find out for real, but would knowing if it was silk or not make a difference to my love of this skirt?  You know the answer to that.

clemence skirt

I do not have much to say about this as the photos tell it all.  It’s fun & swirly, girly & with its polka dots has oodles of personality to add to that deep high waistband.  It’s another of those winning pieces that can be a work skirt or a weekend skirt.

You don’t have to look too closely to see that I took these photos & left the back zip open!  Doh!

clemence skirt

One error of judgement – the pockets are set a bit too low.  Left to my own devices, when not following pattern notches I always seem to get pocket placement either too high or too low.  That is my blind spot.  I can move them at some point.  But no point in being too explicit about that – take my word for it, they are pretty lowslung.

clemence skirt

I made this before Ozzy Blackbeard posted about the links she had found for sewing french seams with a zip (although I used a regular lapped zip)  and also with French seams with side seam pockets.  Wished I’d even considered looking that up as I do prefer French seams for fabric like this.  I just overlocked all my seam finishes.


That said, this was an unbelievably quick make & you have seen it appear previously as part of my Brick Lane/ St Martin’s photo shoot last month.

Clemence and Mimi

But I kept this one back for now – with a Mimi blouse too.  Double polka dots.  Double Tilly.  Have you made any Clemences?  Are you also a fan of the skirt’s personality & the waistband?