Not quite Salome: me-made silk scarf

Posted on 26 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

I’ve really got into scarves recently. Get the right colour combo with the rest of your outfit & it can create such an impact, lifting something a little dull or adding a spark of retro to an otherwise sane look. Ages ago the lovely Roobeedoo sent me some silk. She had thought I’d be able to make something with it, at the very least use it for a scarf.

This silk was b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l: navy background with gymnasts (or if you are obsessed with swimmer related decoration like me you can convince yourself that they are actually swimmers) frolicking across its expanse with stars too. Of course I loved it & draped it across Barbarella thinking about the worthy use I could put it to. But you know what’s coming next don’t you? After a few months of gazing at it, I felt that sewing a silk scarf was how it would be most loved & appreciated by me. And, as long as I kept to its original dimensions I could always make it into something later, the scarf could actually just be a temporary make that got it into use & allowed it out into the big wide world.

Having already made napkins using the rolled hem on my overlocker I determined that provided I tried really hard to get the corners neat, I should do the same to this piece of fabric. It is 140cmx120cm, not a standard scarf measurement, quite large in fact.

Now, it’s the corners that are the tricky part – what you do is sew right up to the edge & one stitch more over the edge. Then, with needle at its highest, lift the foot & swivel the corner off the stitch finger (I know what this is now – it kind of sits inside the rows of stitches & gets bound by them …) – yes, swivel off the stitch finger & turn around 90 degrees. You then put the needle back in the fabric where you want your new seam to join with the previous seam at the inside corner. When I did this before I had a less consistent result, but this worked out OK with neat-enough corners. Phew. I didn’t want to cheapen my scarf through tatty shoddy loopy corners!

But the thing is, big scarf, many options! Salome had 7 veils I believe. Here are 7 looks for my fab scarf …

An obvious first choice, slung over one shoulder….

Rolled up along its diagonal & tied tight around the neck. There is so much more area of this scarf than the usual scarves I wear like this, it would be perfect I think if I suffered whiplash and had a neck brace to disguise…round & round & round ….

As a shawl it might look chic as a cover up for a cocktail dress. But not having one of those you’ll have to use your imagination!

Dial 999! Someone’s stolen my convertible!

Another instance where imagination is needed – could this be a summer top? It’s big enough. Thing is you’re not going to get me exposing myself in these temperatures PLUS I can see far too many stripes through even two layers of this silk! No chance I’ll be wearing it like this!

Believe it or not this is my homage to the Jedi….

But this is how I really like to wear it!

Thank you Roobeedoo for parting with such a special piece of silk! I’ve had fun styling it many different ways, but have worn it lots & love it to death.

Maybe this will result in other people discovering lengths of fabric they can bring out of a drawer and breathe some near instant life into. I do hope so

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Musings on draped muses

Posted on 24 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

So I feel guilty for having the most awesome evening yesterday….I’m sure there were many of us glued to the set for the GB Sewing Bee final, but I’d been invited to share it with the most fabulous company you could ever imagine watching GB Sewing Bee with.

Photos give a mere feel for the party atmosphere and I’m sorry girls, they aren’t particularly posed , as they were quickly grabbed opportunistically. I may have missed the epic meet up on Saturday, but how lovely to be amongst sewing friends as the thrills of the final unfolded. Most marvelously hosted by Tilly, celebrating Handmade Jane’s birthday no less, Sewing Bee carrot cupcakes created by Rachel, much sewing chit chat & catching up with Zoe, Janene (Oobop), Marie & of course Karen. Sigh. I was blissed out. Thank you so much for the highlight of my whole month, I tell you! I hope you have all managed to catch the final but how sad, we are already pining now there’s a big hole on Tuesday evenings…

So, confession over, I’ll move onto to a source of fascination. Tilly very kindly gave me a copy of Drape Drape 3, and we both agreed that the techniques/ patterns/ effects are mesmerising and also fascinating from a learning perspective.

I’m not going to officially review this book – that will have happened else where. It does look like it’s not always had an English translation (judging by the sticker on the cover!), but clearly no excuses for not understanding how to do it! From what I can tell the garments’ beauty &/or “unusualness” comes not from complicated seams and stitching, but from the shapes of the patterns & choosing appropriately drapey fabric. Now whilst there are a lot of styles that require jersey, there are also styles that use wovens. Take this sundress.

No.11, three piece sundress. Is it the polka dots that draws me to it? Is it the promise of sand between my toes and turquoise water beckoning me to leap in & snorkel up some fishies? Thing is I really want to make it but when would I wear it, come on, in England?! But give me the promise of a tropical holiday & this take on the sarong would be right up my street.

Other things that caught my eye, this rather beautiful top,

No.13 one piece boatneck tunic. Now I don’t know why I like this. I think the fabric choice is brilliant- just lace, no stretch required. Would it look good with leggings? Possibly. Would it look like a flying suit if you got the fabric choice desperately wrong? I think so!! I’d be tempted if & only if I could find some lace like this. I think. Maybe. Perhaps,

There is a dress I’ve been giving some attention to, No 12 three piece gather drape wrap dress. Most definitely a dress to be worn with leggings let me tell you! It’s clearly a style for knits. Look at that main piece – that’s where most of the magic takes place. Lots of places with gathering. It might not be scary at all ….making or wearing. Is the drama factor low enough to be considered for a provincial life?

And finally I have saved my “most likely to sew first” till last. Tilly will know that apart from the dotty sundress I was drawn/ fascinated/ confused/ upset even by these

They are shorts! No.8, three piece tuck drape shorts. Or when you look at the pattern pieces, they look like a nappy! And then when you look at the line drawings they look like Hammer pants! Bizarrely I am very likely to make these as my summer lounge-wear. I kid you not! I am intrigued by them & how they might be worn …They look simple enough to make, and look what arrived today…

Oh my! A consignment of sumptuous fine jerseys from Jill at Itterations Workwear (of the Drafting Top) She kindly enclosed some plain black jersey for me as a thank you for pointing out to you readers that these beautiful jerseys are on special offer, and even with international postage you are getting a decent length of quality fabric at a very reasonable price. They are mostly suitable for tops I’d say, but I would be willing to use the black or navy to make them hammer shorts. Go and check out the stripes though – there are some with lurex running through (disco time!) & as you can see I fell for the lovely fine stripes because they sang to me. And my overlocker is hungry. I could not refuse.

I really need to get my sewing for summer plan sorted. There is a danger that I continue to veer from one sewing urge to another ….which is a good thing to do sometimes, but I feel a plan or an objective at least is missing…

For now though, that’s all! Byeee xx

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My Colette Laurel top

Posted on 21 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

I’m just going to plunge in & reveal my affection for Colette Patterns’ newest addition to the awesome collection: Laurel

I know it’s a shift dress & I undoubtedly have plenty of shift dress patterns. But. Look on the website there are some rather nice mods to this simple style. For some reason (might it have anything to do with the competition? ) I opted to give it a go.

I compared the pattern pieces with my tried & tested New Look 6000 which is my “block” now & from experience I know that Colette patterns are usually too big in the back for me & usually bust darts are too high. How fantastic to have a pattern “block” I tell you! It makes fitting & anticipating what might need to be done so much easier …

I thought I’d make the top. But you can see that as I’ve already started with the pics. By the way, excuse the “slicked ” hair look – I’d just come back from a run, showered etc & the hair is still damp. It is not a look I take out onto the streets, honest.

Ahem. Back to the top. Laurel. It is such a quick make , even when there are all these stripes to match. The fabric came from Mandors in Edinburgh & is a buttery glazed cotton. Such a delight to sew with, but I didn’t want to make any mistakes (who ever actually wants to make mistakes :-s ?) as it seems to be a fabric with memory & I worried it would show any holes left by misadventurous stitching.

Side seams look pretty awesome to me! The back has a centre back seam, but joy of joys, this top has a big enough neckline for not requiring any zips or buttons (unless of course your hair is too huge to fit)

Look – there is a seam down the centre back – honest! So it has bust darts & rear vertical darts for a touch of shaping. Whilst I am wearing it out-tucked it might appear a bit more tube-like than my usual fitted styles, but it’s a casual top & tell you what it looks adorable with my new red Chardon skirt, tucked in. Sorry no pics, you’ll have to take my word for it.

As you’re used to if you have sewn Colette before the instructions are just right, but then remember this is a simple make. And peeps, no facings, yes, did you hear me there are no facings, just plain old bias binding! (Or handmade self bias binding which is what I used & boy it looks cute with those diagonal stripes! oops – again I’m teasing as I haven’t taken any photos of that either!) My version, sleeve length, top length etc is just about out of the packet as designed, except (& you can see this a bit on the rear picture above) I did not gather the sleeves but made a few tiny pleats as this fabric is so lovely I didn’t want to create any puncture marks through extra gathering stitches. (Oh & remember I made adjustments to fit, as expected – narrowing the back & lowering the bust dart)

I am won over by this pattern, seriously. There is a lot of scope for individualising it (who me?!) & if the dress is anywhere near as lovely to make as the top….(hint hint, it is! ) I will come back & show you my next Laurel soon …..

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Our seventh castaway: Carolyn from Handmade by Carolyn

Posted on 19 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Oh dear readers, have I got a feast for you today! Whilst out lounging on my lilo I came across the awesome Carolyn, from Handmade by Carolyn on her very own desert island! Now I first came across Carolyn through the various me made months via Flickr. She never failed to impress with her comprehensive & I must say it, unique outfits (I know when we sew we all make unique clothing, but Carolyn, well, Carolyn’s range is extensive & ambitious & shows what a skilled sewster she is. She sews everything!). But she also takes the most wonderful photographs with wonderful light & gorgeous scenery to really set off her makes beautifully (& her dog …..I am in love from afar). Yes, another talented lady who lives by the Australian coast. Too many reasons for just a little bit of envy!

So to set the scene, as I do …

“You are stranded on a desert island, surrounded by beautiful crystal blue water populated by turtles & tropical fish (no sharks!). You have a comfy cosy shelter, an abundance of food & drinking water & a solar generator. Upon exploring the island you find a container that has fallen off a cargo ship & guess what? It is filled with what seems to be a never ending supply of fabrics of all descriptions, threads & notions!! What chance!

You are allowed to take your sewing machine & sewing box but which would be your 8 desert island patterns?

Gday! Here I am on my desert island… what bliss! I’m not even pausing to check out the food and water but just ripping straight into the essentials for life; those boxes of fabric supplies. Good thing I’ve got my favourite patterns!

1. So first things first; I’m reaching for McCalls 2772, my swimsuit pattern. Well, I’m at the beach and so I’m probably going to spend a lot of time in my bathers. And fortunately the bikini pattern is also the one I use to make undies, since I am going to want to wear real underwear at least sometimes. So, yay! I’m decent!

2. And my bra pattern KwikSew 3300. So I can be “supported” as it were.

Here is Carolyn’s post to read more about it.

Oh my, that’s two patterns down already, and I haven’t even got to any proper clothes yet!

3. For a skirt and a top I’ve got Vogue 1247. Blogged by Carolyn here

I love love love the little skirt pattern, and I think I could happily make this skirt alone for the rest of my days. The top is so loose and comfy and will protect me from the sun; great for those long hot days when I’m taking a break from sewing and instead kicking back on the beach, sipping a g & t. Hey wait, I do get to have g & t’s in the food stash, right? I HOPE so! [Absolutely!]

4. For those cool nights, so I’ll need a pair of jeans, which means my old trusty Burda 7863. It is easily adapted to be flared, skinny or bootleg; so I’m all set to have nice warm legs in the whole range of flare-nesses. Essees.

5. And for long sleeved shirts I’ve got Burda7767.

Yup, it’s a mens shirt pattern, but I’ve made a few for myself too and I like wearing mens shirts. I like the looseness and the bigness of them. And heck I can always cut those sleeves short if I want a different style What’s more, I can make shirts for my husband, if he cares to drop in and visit me on my island paradise. I guess I’m going to want him there every once in a while, hmmm; you know, for conversation or whatever, when I’m not hunched over my sewing machine, or swanning about on the beach looking fabulous in my new garb. I’m going to need SOMEONE to see me swan about looking fabulous!

But, first things first, ahem, back to business…

6. I’m on the beach. That dictates shorts. For that I have Burda 7723, another old favourite.

I love this pattern to death!

Even though the envelope contains a jacket and a trousers pattern too I‘ve only made the jacket once and the trousers not at all. It’s always been all about the shorts here!

7. And for those cool evenings, and for when I feel like curling up under the palm trees for a bit of mindless knitting; I’ll take my cardigan pattern too… Jo Sharp’s fitted cardigan.

8. A dress? Why, yes! Hmmm, that one’s kinda hard to narrow it down. I’m a one-night stander when it comes to dress patterns… make it once and then it’s on to the next one!

But I’m taking Burda 8071 because it’s the one of the few dress patterns I’ve made over and over and over again and also it’s the perfect beachy sundress.

Now for my sewing book: well the only ones I’ve got are the Pattern Magic books, so it will have to be one of them. I’m choosing Pattern Magic 2, since it’s the one I’ve used the least so I have the most to do in it.

Plus I think it’s the most challenging so it will keep me occupied and amused and stave off boredom for ages. Plus I think the concepts in it look the most varied and interesting and easily translatable to actual clothes.

For my non-sewing related book… hmm this is tough! Want to hear something pathetic? This is the part that I had to think about the longest! When I am reading a book I get soaked up in it, and LIVE it; but once I’ve finished I toss it blithely aside never to be read again and move on to new pastures. Oh OK I don’t really toss it anywhere, I’m loving towards books, honest. There’s no tossing involved. I meekly and dutifully return it to the library and select another. But for a thoroughly immersive read I’ve tucked Brideshead Revisited in with me for the ride.

I re-visit (haha) this book every few years and something about the whole work just speaks to me, and moves me afresh every single time.

Luxury item. Hmmm. That would have to be my subscription to Australian Vogue magazine. My one luxury would be that a plane fly over and drop off my monthly dose of glossy sartorial gorgeousness for me to wallow in and gain inspiration afresh.

Disc of music. OK so this is totally dating me, but I would choose something either disco or something New Romantic like Spandau Ballet. Maybe an anthology of greatest hits from the early eighties. My kinda music, the stuff we used to bop to when I was a spotty teen. Either that, or David Guetta. I’m currently digging She-Wolf.

Thank you so much for giving me my island paradise Scruffy Badger!! Maybe I’ll pop into my outrigger and paddle over to visit you and all the other desert islanders on your islands, and we can parade our creations… how fun would that be!

Right now I’m off to pop the top on that g&t… cheers!

Chink chink! So that’s Carolyn set up for her desert island of sewing. A big thanks to Carolyn for taking the time to think & share her choices! But I have to say that pulling the post together has been a total pleasure – I think I gasped at each photo! That’s it. I’m emigrating!

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Deer and Doe Chardon Skirt: not grey but red!

Posted on 17 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Dear all,

Thank you so much for your comments to my last post on grey & the sometimes negative associations clothes & the things we make can have, & your kind comments – big hugs to you all The dress’s fate is being considered & I’m feeling liberated by knowing that I have so many options! Progress was made in that I deliberately chose not to wear it to work on Monday! Anyway, thankfully I wrote about that dress with my sights already set on some cheerful making: a red denim skirt. But no ordinary red denim skirt, but my first venture into the cute French Deer & Doe styling: the Chardon skirt, or if we are being cosmopolitan, the Jupe Chardon.

When Roobeedoo suggested that it looked like a Kelly skirt (which I must admit to have had a hankering for)… but without buttons… my little internet shopping finger twitched & clicked. I mean, I can always alter for buttons later, right? What I hadn’t appreciated when I ordered it was that it had two styles: the simple version with belt loops & single fabric, or a style with a contrast hem band plus….wait for it….a surprise bow belt behind you! This image below shows you the bow belt style, not the belt loop style. Now I like the idea of the bow coming out at front, don’t you?

I’m sure that can be arranged ….

I’d made the mistake of ordering my fabric (red “sheen” denim here from Ditto) before thinking this through, supposing that I had enough denim in my stash to make the contrast band. I did not, so the single colour, single fabric skirt was plumped for. Realistically it’s going to be possible to wear it with allsorts being of a single colour methinks.

So when the pattern arrived (or should I say “patterns” as I also ordered the blouse Datura too ) I was ecstatic to discover that there are now instructions in English as well as French. Hurrah. Although I could have exercised my school French & on-line translating I had thought.

Making this skirt was a dream – except that I foolishly inverted the box pleats to the wrong side which made them un-inverted box pleats= box pleats I guess. The lines however call for the box pleats to be inverted so that the silhouette around your waist is not too pouffy – & with denim this really would be unacceptable – oodles of stiff fabric pleated around one’s waist. Therefore there was some unpicking to properly invert the pleats & topstitch them. (Nice thread matching thanks to Ditto!)

It’s got wonderful side seam pockets made out of elephant fabric , & I know I am not alone- side seam pockets mean that hands gravitate towards pockets whenever there is opportunity- am I right?

I followed the instructions to the letter, even (but not using an invisible zip), hemming using bias. Now I could have used some fancy pretty bias, but not having enough elephant fabric to do this meant that I kept it simple & used run of the mill shop bought solid red. Too boring to photograph I’m afraid! I had wondered if this was going to be a “young skirt” ie too short for a badger in her 40s, but I made it to the pattern & turned up a good inch hem (but remember I am a shortie).

What did I do extra to the pattern’s instructions? Well whilst this was a simple skirt to make & the instructions are easy to follow (the box pleat mis-inversion was my error!) I felt that the waist needed extra steps. It has no waistband, but is a waist hugging style. It’s faced & so I understitched the facing, but also felt that the waist edge needed top stitching as with denim it was thick & I wasn’t confident that it would stay where I wanted it. I’d made my belt loops with top stitched edges (OK, if we are being precise that is actually “edge stitching isn’t it?!) & so felt that it was an OK style diversion in keeping with denim. What did I wish I’d done now I’ve worn it? Well, being denim & denim’s tendency to fray, I should have finished the cut edges of the belt loops as I am still picking out bits threads from the fabric.

It was catching the wind ….imagine the fun in a lighter fabric!

I’ve worn it a couple of times now & it’s flirty & girly & wait for it…..cheerful!

I can’t wait to make it with the contrast fabric & a bow ….& then the top …I will need to make all varieties of the Datura! With so many ideas buzzing around my head I need to sit down & get planning …watch this space!

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On grey & being miserable

Posted on 13 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

OK peeps, so this is actually a discussion piece, interspersed with photos to illustrate the point. You might be forgiven for thinking I am talking about our seemingly endless winter (which has had a few rare glimpses of sunshine to be fair & how awesome those days are…). But no. I am talking about something else. I am talking about moods, sewing & what we wear. In particular I am going to relate this to a garment that I made a good six weeks ago, but have had issues about blogging because of what it represents…..

So let’s get stuck in!

I am embarrassed to say that I have misplaced the dress pattern that started this process. It’s an awesome winter dress from the 70s that I won from a giveaway that the lovely Amanda at Symon Sez ran. Can I find it? But no! It’s Simplicity 9576 – image from Vintage pattern Wiki

Source

When I saw it on Amanda’s blog I have to say I was taken with it – it could be the perfect winter (work or not) dress & it’s possible to make out of knit. You know me well enough by now to know how appealing that was to me. And look at the cute possibilities when playing around with colour & ahem, fringing!!

This was to be my March dress. As you know I have an allowance of twelve frivolous dress makes this year, but guess what, this doesn’t count, by virtue of the fabric I chose to make it out of & the rest of the story that surrounds this particular garment. I chose some grey knit that I acquired at, you guessed it, Birmingham Rag Market. It was SO cheap. I bought a dress length. It’s charcoal with a slight woven stripe in its wales (apparently that’s what they are called, the vertical lines – mebbe).

It’s a poloneck dress with a back zip & a wrap skirt. I kept it plain, just adding some grey buttons to the front wrap as a bit of personality. I like the position of the darts: back shoulder, back waist darts & the bust darts rise diagonally from just above the waist at the side seam.

I didn’t do my usual lapped zipper (don’t ask me why – far too long ago now) but I did interface each edge before inserting the zip centrally ( as suggested by Solvi in the comments in this post - lots of great tips). I thought that with a stretch fabric it could only help – I mean whenever I sew knits I never sew patterns that require zips! This was a first for me. I used my overlocker as much as I could but forgot to stabilise the shoulders with tape…never mind.

Fit-wise it’s not perfect – the back is a little large & could do with less at the centre back, but I’m not willing to undo a zip in a knit! Maybe a bit of a sway back adjustment needed too. Also, the polo neck is split at the back, but I prefer wearing it closed & need to add a hook & eye to replace the safety pin cunningly hidden. It is another useful dress to wear to work as it doesn’t need ironing & is great for changing out of into gym kit & stuff into my rucksack at the end of the work day.

Now onto the hard bit. Talking about this dress & what it represents to me. I’d started this dress but finished it whilst incredibly miserable, I mean, you don’t want to know how miserable. I forced myself to make it thinking that sewing would cheer me up/ get me through my misery. This dress will now forever be branded with those memories.

It is grey, OK, so not the most jolly colour, but it has become impregnated with negative emotions. And guess what? It has become the dress I wear to work when I want to feel even more miserable, when I want people to not even bother to ask me how I am, because it is pretty obvious (to me ) that when I wear this dress I am miserable as sin. This is how I’ve been wearing it: no make up, no jewellery & wow, even the belt is unremarkable.

But hey peeps. Blogging about this dress means that I have to make an effort. I realise that recently this blog hasn’t been reflecting a word that’s key to the essence of this blog: “silliness”. C’mon girl, time to make an effort. Get some slap on & for goodness sake accessorize.

Now isn’t that better? But can you try a bit harder? You know you’ve got something bought in January , bought especially with blogging in mind….

So grey doesn’t look that dull now, does it?

So, the discussion is, do you have any garments that you’ve made that have a profound effect on your mood, or how feel? I know that we might often talk about how clothes make us feel bright, happy, cheerful, attractive, but sometimes they can do just the opposite.

And with that in mind

Link to So Zo’s blog explaining it here

I, Scruffy Badger, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’13. I endeavour to wear only me made clothes, promising brighter outfits & with make up each day for the duration of May 2013 (to include PJs, knickers & running clothes as much as possible ) ‘

Now I’ve got to be off – something bright & cheerful awaits me at my sewing machine

Happy weekend everyone x

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Denim Trousers: Sewaholic Thurlow wins again

Posted on 8 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

I can’t wait to show you my latest make: my denim Sewaholic Thurlow Trousers. I don’t think I can call them jeans even though they are made out of denim, can I?

Do you remember Lladybird’s awesome Thurlows in denim ? (she did call hers “jeans” or “Thurlow jeans” rather). When I saw them I felt that it could be a brilliant half way house to biting the bullet & making real jeans. I mean, I really am so in awe of those of you out there who sew jeans. The felled seams, the huge thicknesses of layers of denim requiring topstitching. The belt loops (think about how many layers of stitching your poor ol’ machine has to chew through multiple times). Also I think if I made jeans they would require by virtue of it being in my power, the most awesome pockets with stitching design I could muster. So, you can see all my excuses for delaying any kind of adventure into jeans making. Trousers made out of denim however? Casual trousers that could become that weekend staple? I can now proudly proclaim I have ticked that box & have been wearing said trousers casually with pride (hence the creases!!)

I’d this denim in my stash but I can’t remember where it came from….bad badger. I even mis-remembered it – I’d seen its reverse (as that is how I’d folded it) & thought it was more of a stonewash! Oh larks. I’d been keeping it back for summer! But then I investigated more closely once Lladybird’s Thurlow jeans were out there. Once I’d made my first pair in houndstooth I knew another pair would be joining them to hang in the wardrobe whilst I was in bed &/or at the office. At all other times there was a good chance they would be surgically applied to my body*.

So once again utilising Lladybird’s excellent sewalong notes for the key stages (welt pockets, fly front) away I sailed. I used some garish “Hawaiian” themed cotton in pea green for the pockets & lining, but made a small boo boo. Can you tell?

Whilst the fabric does seem upside down, there are bits that are the right way up so it’s not that. That’s right, for some unbeknown to me reason, the right side should in fact be inside the pockets, (If I have got this right that is) but then you wouldn’t see much of it would you? You know, taking them off you’d see the reverse of the lining, as opposed the true glory of pea green canoists in grass skirts. So if it is a mistake I can live with it…actually, more than live with it, I positively like it.

I was fully intending to make them with turn ups too. I couldn’t remember if Lladybird had or not. It turns out she had, but it transpired that I got my calculations wrong & had ankle nippers. In fact I had to hem them three times until I’d got them long enough. Luckily I used the invisible hem on my machine (the one that looks like a heart rate monitor) so it wasn’t too arduous only galling. Weird how sometimes you get these finishing stages so wrong.

[Yes that ball has not moved ....it's always in these pics isn't it....let's see if it's still there after I give the grass its first cut of the year....? ]

What else is there to say? Well, I thought the fit was quite nice. I’d made them a size smaller as the fabric had a little bit of lycra in it.

And it was only through these photos that I can see there’s some odd creasing going on under butt cheek visible at the side (cos we all look at side views in the mirror don’t we?) If I straighten up it looks as if it disappears slightly though

Oh yes, here are my double welt pockets in close up too without having to look at them on my person …

They are not perfect, but good enough for me. I really enjoyed the whole making, but having pockets like this, fly fronts etc do make them just that little more satisfying, especially knowing that there is not only Tasia’s helpful instructions.but Lladybird’s tutorial too.

And for the eagle eyed of you, yes that is a Sozo batwing top I’m wearing in the photos. Isn’t it just so cool …

* when I am not wearing my Laura Lounge trousers of course!

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GoT series one knitting: the slouchy hat

Posted on 6 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

So I told you that I had been lounging, knitting whilst watching the Game of Thrones series one boxset? (A recommended activity on cold wintry afternoons with the fire on I have to say). Well this is the outcome & will forever remind me of the unfolding drama …

Well, I was knitting from Jane Brocket’s Gentle Art of Knitting, her “Ochre Hat” pattern.

It’s a wonderfully simple pattern: rib, 10 rows of stocking stitch followed by 10 rows of reverse stocking stitch with shaping at the crown.

It’s a large flumpy slouchy hat & the reverse stocking stitch bands give it a gorgeous texture. Plus it is even simple enough for me to only have one instance of ripping out.

I made it using Adriafil Knitcol trends 100% merino variegated yarn. Boy I used to love it when the red came through the needles. The blue/white part was more stripey & so created stitches that almost looked fairisle. I guess this hat looked more complex as a result!

So much so that my Mum has leapt at the change to knit her own version. I gave this one as a present, & it looks so much better on the recipient (she has long hair).

So I’ve got series two now ….what’s on the needles?

Hope you are all having a great weekend. Hope to be catching up with you soon …xx

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Sewing cardigans: McCalls 6708 and Simplicity 2154 Face Off

Posted on 3 April, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

OK, so previously I promised you another pattern for sewing (yes, sewing) your own cardigan. So what I’m going to do is not only show you this “other” cardigan pattern but try to compare it with Simplicity 2154. What a bonus I hear you cry!

So first up, the second cardigan pattern, McCalls 6708.Note the key words on this envelope: “Easy” and “Knits”. I’m away!!

Let’s take a closer look at this shall we? It comes in two lengths with two necklines & sleeve length variations. But what’s interesting about it is that the pockets you see are real…not faux me dears, but genuine proper welt pockets.

Now I was a bit cautious this time, making view E but without the pockets. You’ll see that is partly to do with the fabric that I was making it out of, but mainly due to laziness. This is an overlocker make on the whole, & I didn’t want to be fiddling around tooooo much with details. I didn’t really want the Chanel look cardigan on this occasion.

The fabric is some patterned acrylic I bought last summer at Manchester’s Abakhan in one of the bargain weigh-your-own bins. Yes I know it’s grey, for some reason I seem to be making loads of grey clothing at the moment. This is not a conscious effort, promise.

And yes, I spent Easter by the sea & we had sunshine…cold, yes, but blue skies and the sun shone on us.

Here’s another seaside pic just to show off. The hat? (A Weekend Hat) Yes I knitted it, but will have to point out its many failings another time – I will tell you it took a darn sight longer than a weekend…

This cardigan pattern uses bands for cuffs, neck, hem & front edges. In fact every discernible edge is finished with a band (complete opposite of Simplicity 2154). So you can see that I did not opt for contrast bands as suggested by the pattern, I did consider it, but did not have anything suitable. Sewing buttonholes on this kind of band was fine too, even though there was no interfacing (or was there? You know I can’t remember! I think I would use interfacing next time….). I had some cream buttons already that I used for giving it some pop.

The instructions for making this particular view were ok- easy to follow. The bands all worked nicely, but I was less happy having to slip stitch the centre front bands inside their long edges. I was tempted to machine stitch in the ditch, but it is a very obvious seam to show through & on this occasion I decided to go slow.

I have worn this cardigan heaps since I finished it – I REALLY like it – the floral fabric is one reason, (cos I love it) but the shape to me is a perfect cardigan – nicely figure hugging & a nice low enough neckline. It looks great buttoned up as well as true cardigan style.

So what about the Face Off? Simplicity 2154 vs McCalls 6708

McCalls 6708 to the left, Simplicity 2154 to the right, blogged about here.

Here they are side by side. McCalls has a better more shapely fit from the width of the sleeve, the narrowness of the cuff & the slight waist shaping. Remember the Simplicity cardigan has been shaped a bit already by me & shortened. I also prefer the neckline of the McCalls pattern, it is lower. And what’s more, upon reflection, I like that the cuff & hem bands on the McCalls as they pull the sleeves/ body of the cardigan in a bit too…

I’d say undone, the McCalls has more of the properties of a knitted cardigan – it is less boxy & more snuggly with its narrow sleeves…

What I love about the Simplicity version is its button band made with grosgrain ribbon – just neatly attached, folded over & top stitched. There are fewer pattern pieces, with hems being turned & topstitched as opposed to extra bands attached & finished. But it still looks less like a knitted cardigan than the McCalls, don’t you think? At one point I was thinking of being tricksty & combining the McCalls shape with the Simplicity button band technique, but feel now that all of the bands bring the style together for the McCalls & it feels to me that to omit the centre front bands would be a design disaster as I wouldn’t want to omit the hem or cuffs.

I have some “grass green” quality knit (with actual wool content!) from Ditto to make up my next cardigan, as I can tell you I am sold on the whole concept of no-knit cardigans… I am leaning towards another McCalls….but with welt pockets this time……& cute buttons

What is your experience? Anyone tried either of these patterns? Are there any other “knitted” cardigan patterns out there that are a success?

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Our sixth castaway: Lizzy of Sew Busy Lizzy

Posted on 31 March, 2013 by scruffybadgertime

Here’s something for the holiday weekend: a new installment of desert island sewing. So who it today?

What can I say about Lizzy (from SewBusyLizzy) apart from her immense energy, prolific sewing & her inability to ignore a challenge? So many (nice) things come to mind, but I’ll keep focus. In my view this lovely lady is the closest real person I know who lives anywhere like a desert island….hailing from the southern hemisphere with koalas that creep into her backyard keeping the family awake at night with their antics, Lizzy’s sewing creations are not only gorg-ee-ous but her photos usually have me green with envy, being snapped on the golden sand, in the frothy surf, or on the headland. This is where she lives people! I want to swap locations & she knows! Lizzy is coming across to the UK next month too, so that’s really exciting for us – maybe she’ll bring some sunshine with her?

So here goes, Lizzy has picked her choices ….have you got your cuppa ready for a good read? Let’s set the scene ….

You are allowed to take your sewing machine & sewing box but which would be your 8 desert island patterns?

Funnily enough a lot of my pictures make me look like I’m already on a deserted island. LOL.
I did spend my honeymoon on a tiny island in Tonga – with no electricity after 9pm. No radio. No TV. No phones. It was simple and blissful.

I’ve got some practical choices (as I’m not sure quite how long I’m on this island, I’m after a combination of comfortable practical items and dream sewing!)

1. Maria Denmark Day-to-Night Top

My blue stripey version of this pattern is my most heavily worn t-shirt this summer. It’s quite simply perfect. It’s fitted enough to be flattering and drapey in all the right places. The cowl stays in place and the raw edges do no pop out. It’s my new BFF.

I’ve also figured out how to modify the pattern pieces to create a comfortable, flattering, slinky dress. It deserves a lifetime in paradise with me.

And I think I could draft up sleeves to provide me with short and long sleeved versions of this top.

2.Shorts

I haven’t actually sewn shorts for my blog yet. While I’m not a big shorts wearer, I really think having a few pairs in the wardrobe would be essential, much easier to run about in, shin up to grab a few coconuts, make my beach lean-to shelter and all the essential things I might have to do (yes it can’t be all joy and sewing, I’m pretty sure housework in some form exists everywhere!).

I’m very fond of the new shorts pattern just released by Burda…

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I think they would look lovely with my day-to-night tops as well.

3. Vogue 1247

Ahhhh, me old matey Vogue 1247. The skirt would be most practical with its cavernous pockets and the top is lovely and cool to wear on a hot, humid day.

4. Vintage Jiffy (Simplicity Jiffy 4977)

I would take my vintage Jiffy pattern. It’s nothing flash but it’s so comfortable, looks lovely cinched in at the waist or if I need to flop about, it’s quite kaftan-like in its wide, loose, swinging style.

5. Shirt dress – McCalls 6696

I love shirt dresses, although bizarrely I don’t own too many of them. I’ve spent the last year searching for a perfect shirt dress and I think this might be it…

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Collared tops provide much better sun protection than t-shirts – I’m sounding like a right Aussie nerd (and clearly I’m getting practical in my old age). These days most Aussies kids cannot play at preschool or school unless they are wearing a wide-brimmed hat. At preschool they also must wear ‘sun smart’ clothing, which means no singlets, sleeveless tops etc. I guess we spend our lives being hammered by the harsh Australian sun so we are learning to modify our lives and wardrobes.

My version of this is in the pipeline. Watch this space.

6. Swimwear, McCalls 5400

As much as I would ditch the swimwear pattern in favour of more clothes, I think I may also be able to use the bikini bottoms for underwear!

I’ve been looking a lot at swimmers lately and at the moment this is the only current pattern I’ve found that holds any appeal. I’ll keep searching and hope something turns up before my plane crashes…

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It comes with the bonus pull-over cover-up – which in tropical sun is really essential. Trust me on this people, I live at the beach. Skin cancer and sun spots ain’t pretty.

7. Jacket – Vogue 8804

I almost picked Papercut’s Watson jacket but I would take

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Why? It’s classic. It comes with couture instructions. It would keep me busy and give me something to learn. Plus the world never seems to have enough Chanel style jackets – does it?

8. Fancy Dress – Vogue 1162

I love fancy dresses. I like to put them on, sing ‘oooo la la’ in my head and preening in front of the mirror (but no singing into the hairbrush, I have some dignity). One day I would love to make this dress.

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I love the style, I’m not sure how it would look on me (possibly dreadful I am of the vertically and curvaceously challenged humans) but I am really drawn to the sleeves, apparently each sleeve takes about 8 hours of hand sewing– if I’m on a deserted island (think Tom Hanks/Castaway) I’m going to have time on my hands. A little bit of hand sewing would not go astray.

You are also allowed to take two books, firstly which sewing related book would you take & why?
Hmmmmm, I’d probably pick Gertie’s Guide to Better Sewing. Not because I am necessarily a retro chick but because it looks gorgeous, has loads of useful fitting and general sewing advice – and there are a bucketload of patterns and variations which might come in handy if My Top 8 starts to become tedious after say… 5 years…

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Secondly, which non-sewing related book would you take & why?

A non-sewing book… having majored literature at university this is tough!! Argh! I think that if I was stuck on a desert island I would probably long for home at some point so perhaps a book that reminds me of home, hmmmm I was so tempted to pick Cloudstreet by Tim Winton (one of Australia’s most beloved contemporary novels). I would take Secret River by Kate Grenville.

This book is very evocative of the Hawkesbury River just outside Sydney. As a young child we hired a Halverson cruiser, an old wooden holiday boat and cruised this river a couple of times. It was a back-to-basics holiday, fishing off the side of the boat, swimming in deserted river inlets, very simple and uncomplicated. This book captured the unique beauty and terror of the Australian landscape. I can smell the gumtrees, mangroves, see the bush rising up away from the water, the ravines and gorges, I can feel the eerie stillness of the bush. I often wonder at how terrifying and fascinating Australia must have seemed to the English when they arrived in 1788 – it must have been a huge challenge, completely terrifying and very alien. Funnily enough, I am a direct descendent of one of the first Governors of NSW and also the family that established merino sheep in Australia. I have a fascination with this period of our history – a fascination tinged with sadness. It’s a terribly confronting story of Aboriginals and white settlers, a great read even if it makes you feel sad, angry or conflicted, sometimes those are important things to feel.

Next your one luxury. What would you choose (doesn’t have to be sewing related this time!)

Hmmmm, a cellar with an endless supply of great chilled white wine and single malt whisky might be nice… or an endless supply of tea bags…

And finally if you could only take one disc of music what album would you choose & why? A really tough one! I would probably pick U2’s Rattle & Hum.

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I love a wide variety of music but I never tire of U2, it also reminds me of friends, pubs, good times – and the songs are so emotive. I could spend years trying to decide which song was my favourite… I still haven’t decided and it came out in 1989!

Well, thank you so much Lizzy for your fabulous desert island choices and taking the time to share them with us. I’d say this is a perfect desert island wardrobe & I can picture you wandering barefoot on the beach looking quintessentially Lizzy in your gorgeous choices. Your desert island sure sounds comfortable too …. Everybody’s choices just seem to open up even more inspiration, don’t you agree folks?

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