The Contingency Pants: more Ultimate Trousers

“It’s about time”!  Another pair of Ultimate Trousers. Yes, these trousers were made way back in September & I have only just got around to posting about them.    That’s mainly due to not having taken photos of them in action – as you will see they crease a little following a day’s wear- & so any post work photos are just plain out of the window since I am highly unlikely to feel the urge to iron straight after a day at the office & a two mile power walk uphill.

Ultimate trousers

OK, rewind.  The Contingency pants were born for OWOP (One Week One Pattern), when my pattern of choice was the Ultimate Trouser pattern.  The only shortfall I had was trousers for work.  But why did I call these the Contingency pants?

Ultimate trousers My deviation from the pattern – lapped zipper, not an invisible zip.

Well, I had actually cut out another pair of Ultimates in work appropriate autumnal suiting, however, when I came to sew them up, discovered I hadn’t the right coloured thread.  This fabric – a mini dogtooth check (100% silk remnant from Mandors in Edinburgh) was always tucked away at the back of my mind as a potential pair of ultimates, & when called on for OWOP, therefore became the “Contingency Pants”.  I might be doing myself no favours referring to them as “pants” because I really don’t want you to confuse with “incontinence pants” .  But there you go.  Please do not be confused.

Ultimate trousers

So, you know by now that I love the Ultimate trousers by Sew Over it. My OWOP adventures this year chart their versatility & my love of their cut & style.  The sewing of these Ultimates is a cinch- as I always say- once you get the fit just about right.  But I have made quite a few pairs of these now (5 pairs) & I  have to say that allow for fabrics to behave differently.  Do not assume that because your last pair was body perfect that you have no need to try on as you sew – different pairs have given me a different fit experience.  These are made in a silk that behaves almost like a light weight polyester (I have the label though to prove that it is silk!), these, came up huge.

Ultimate trousers

I had to wear them, realise during the day that they were not snug enough & take some more in afterwards.  I think I altered the CF & CB about three times.  I still feel when I look at them in these photos that they are not the most flattering  on me. (I mean it would help if I wore better underwear – apols about that! Just pretend that you can’t see any vpls please, for me…)  But even still I am not 100% sure that I have finished them…I may take the lower leg in a bit more ….but then I do need enough calf room to be comfy & tasteful (!)….what do you think?  I mainly wear these with flat shoes & am not after a skinny look, but maybe they could look better a bit more skinny than this?

Ultimate trousers

I don’t tend to wear them with tops like this – I have just pulled this together for the photos since this is about the trousers & how they fit.  I don’t actually like tucking tops into trousers – I always wear things untucked on the outside unless trousers have belt loops & are pleated.  (Like my Vogue Baggy trousers). And this is my first Pavlova top that is too short unless I wear a cami/ vest underneath.  I’m always fussing with it – too much gappage even though I lengthened it from the original pattern.

Ultimate trousers See those post wear creases?

But I do wear these often.  It’s the time of year for trousers like this – t-shirts & cardigans, socks & flat lace ups.   Can’t wait to show you my next pair!  They are a huge success too 🙂 (Dare I say *even* better than these??)

21 thoughts on “The Contingency Pants: more Ultimate Trousers

  1. Sue

    Right, I’ve bought the pattern and can’t wait to make my first pair. I have been so impressed and inspired by all your versions, and hope that mine look half as good.

    Reply
  2. Eliza-sew-little

    Silk trousers! I’m jealous. I’ve made some similar work trousers that I intend to wear for first time today. I’m not sure if I have the fit right and will probably spend the day fussing about leg width etc. so many more variables than a skirt.

    Reply
    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      You’re right – there are more variables – somehow in a cut like this it’s much more important to get it how you want them – straight leg trousers are just that & no need to think about calf width!!

      Reply
  3. Jane

    Very nice ‘pants’ Winnie, perfectly chic for work! I think the fit around the waist and hips looks great but personally would take the lower leg in a smidgen. Not too tight though, as you say, you don’t want skinnies! I’m gearing up for a second pair, but will definitely need to take in my first pair (CB and CF coincidentally). After a few wears, they’re now very loose around the waist. Looking forward to seeing your next triumphant pair. X

    Reply
    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Thanks for the advice Jane – its good to get a second opinion & I trust yours! Yes, looking at them in these pics there is a small bit of flappage I think I can reduce. Yes – CF & CB waist area is my point of adjustment – exactly – I kept feeling I needed to hoik them up…taking the right sized wedge out took a few attempts. I guess that’s a potential especially with fabrics that have a lycra content. My next triumphant pair – hehehe!

      Reply
  4. Becky

    I think these trousers are lovely! I have a love/hate relationship with lycra. It makes garments so comfortable, but too much and it bags out after a few hours of wearing. Grrrr! I am still trying to figure out the right percentage of lycra in fabric! Anyway, I think you may want to diddle with these some just to get them perfect for you, but they look great on you, as is. I have been looking for a good side zip pants pattern. When you compare them to other trouser patterns, how would you rate them for difficulty?

    Reply
    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Hi Becky
      I’d say that these trousers are a straight forward make. As trousers go they are pretty straight forward to sew – just a waistband facing, side zip – no fly or belt loops or waistband.
      This fabric is strange – it is silk – no lycra – clearly I am not accustomed to sewing with such fine materials!

      Reply
  5. LinB

    Yes, I can see how these trousers/slacks/pants/bottoms/trews — so confusing to know what to call these garments — are troublous to you. They do seem a bit flappy about the crotch and derriere in these photos.

    I like silk elastic-waist bifurcated lower garments for summer wear, lovely loose weaves and wide legs for maximum air circulation. I tend to choose closely-woven cottons and woolens in narrowed legs for cooler weather. Silk is shifty, it likes to stretch and sag. Don’t over-fit your pants/trousers, or you’ll not be able to sit down comfortably! Wear these under a long-ish tunic and you’ll be happier with them. In my opinion. If you will, as it were, so to speak. Per se.

    Reply
    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Yes LinB you hit the nail on the head- they have just a little more room due to the silk I think. I will be narrowing the lower leg, but the photos do show that extra in the under carriage area (!) that actually feels right when sitting ….I will not worry about that perhaps & continue to wear untucked shirts!

      Reply
  6. India

    These trousers look great. I have never made a pair of trousers and feel quite timid about the whole fitting issue with them. Sounds like making a muslin might be OK as a first step- but then as you say the pattern behaves differently with each type of fabric. Eek

    Reply
    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Hi India – I think all patterns come out differently according to the behaviour of the fabric you choose – however for me it is more obvious with these due to their lovely fit (& wanting to get a certain leg look) & because I have made them enough times to be able to compare now! Making a muslin or a wearable one is a great idea. But as trouser patterns go, this is a lovely straight forward make.

      Reply
  7. Catherine Daze

    I’m going to respectfully disagree that you should wear these with a long top. I think the overall silhouette with the pink wrap top is great. (And the pink is awesome on you).

    Reply
  8. Tammy

    Love the pants. Fyi the fabric you referred to as “This fabric – a mini dogtooth check ” is referred to in my neck of the woods as “puppy tooth” which I think is just to cute not to share.

    Reply
  9. Pingback: Sew Not Over It! Pussy Bow Blouse and Ultimate Trousers - Scruffy Badger Time

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