Boy you’re in for a bumper blog post today! Not one, not two, but THREE new makes – from the new Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers pattern. I will be showing you the “test” shorts, a looser fit linen pair of Ultimates & then my favorite ditsy floral Ultimates. So let’s begin. I’m afraid it is a longer than normal post with even more pictures. Can you stand it? maybe not. You can always tune out 🙂
I was lucky enough to be sent a copy of the Ultimate trousers by Sew Over It.
When I saw the design I was ever curious, after my Colette Clover fitting histories how would the Ultimate Trousers measure up? I noticed that unlike the Clovers, the Ultimate trousers do not require stretch fabric. Hmm. Interesting I thought. And to be honest, I couldn’t wait to be let loose on them, thinking that the shorts would be a good test make and potentially offer up something for my holidays.
Never being over cocky with trouser making I opted to make a test pair of shorts out of some striped drill that I’d used to make my Vintage vogue ( Butlins) jacket. Shorts are ace- they do not take much fabric at all! Bargain! I whipped these shorts up, and tried them on before adding the zip and facing. How strange. They appeared to fit with the exception of needing to take out a mini 1″ long wedge at CB and CF. Putting the zip in next, trying on before adding the facing, all was looking good still. I was floating on a cloud! They really are the ultimate trousers for me. I like the way that they sit an inch below your belly button. The crotch line is *my* crotch line. I wouldn’t assume that it will be right for everyone but it works perfectly for me. I went ahead and got the shorts made up to hem them. They have cute turn ups which means that there is a big hem allowance to enable this. The only thing that didn’t work for me with the fit of these shorts was the width of the leg, at hem line, with the added bulk of the turn up. Clearly my over muscular runner’s hamstrings ( !!!!!) made the leg width at the point at which the turn ups sit, too snug.
Once I took the turn up off, they were fine. So even with no revisions to the leg width they would make a cool pair of almost Bermudas too?! But not in this fabric. I will be making them with turn ups & adding a smidgeon to the lower width of the leg as I really like the length with the turn up & they are such a good fit.
And not as a suit. Hahahaha
So what did I make next? Why, a pair of longs! I made them out of some kind of linen mix bought with Rachel and Jane at an off the beaten track drapers near Goldhawk road. Exceedingly cheap and dispensable should it not work out. It’s got a nice stripe to it, and it was initially going to be a BHL Victoria blazer….
But then spontaneity kicked in & they were destined for Ultimates!
Due to a. My runner’s leg discoveries as shorts and b.being linen I didn’t want the trousers to be too tight and bag and sag in an unsightly fashion, so when I cut them out I added a little bit to the leg width from upper thigh all the way down.
And made these trousers as per instructions. Except using a lapped zip as I didn’t have an invisible zip. I think they’re great. Once again, even though the fabric has a different quality, is thinner and less robust, the crotch line works for my ‘undercarriage’ ( that is such a granny phrase, isn’t it!!)
I realise I have made them with a looser leg, but that is by my design and I still think they look sharp- I didn’t want a tight pair of linen trousers, remember.
And I am loving what the striped linen pairs with. This is my Liberty top which I love wearing because it always reminds me that the fabric was a gift from my boys….
Now for those Dandy trews shown at the very head of this post. My latest pair of Ultimates. And boy are they groovy – I’ve made them tighter in the leg & they are dandy with a capital “D”! Party pants!
I made these using some ditsy floral twill I scored on Ebay yonks ago, thinking at the time that I’d make a Colette Ginger skirt or a floral jacket with it.
And then came along the Ultimates. This fabric is light weight enough for summer to early autumn wearing, but firm enough to get a bit closer in the leg without suffering from too much strain.
It was a case of fit as you go – sew them, try them on, pin a bit more out of the leg until happy. And I am happy. Boy am I happy with these funky pants.
And what gets me is that they fit so nicely, are tightly fitted trousers, but have no lycra whatsoever – yet are supremely comfortable. It is a revelation I tell you.
Now if you are a little cautious about making trousers this is a simple pattern to make up, & what’s more there is a sewalong on the Sew Over It blog guiding you through each stage. Might make it easier for you to take the plunge!
Me? I see many more of these to come- I am thinking a solid colour for work, & maybe using some bright blue denim- it has lycra in it though, so I may reserve that for trousers that need it! Plenty of time to think on it though…..