Yet another Named make: the Andy Coat

Yes, it’s official.  This is the fourth Named pattern that I have made & I think that makes me a Named Groupie!  Before I even consider my next purchase let’s talk about the Andy Coat, since this is what this post is all about.

Andy coat

The Andy coat is one of those patterns that grew on me the more I looked at it.  Having made the extravaganza of the Lolita Patterns Spearmint Coat, with ric rac which has become my “occasions” coat, I recognised the need for more of an every day coat, and since I was often drawn to gazing at the Named website for long stretches of time, the ability of the Andy coat to fit my lifestyle requirements became clear.

I knew that I would not wear it without the belt, but with the belt it was cute.  I hadn’t appreciated the desirability of a collarless coat at first- but apart from the advantages in not having to sew a collar there was all sorts of scarf wearing potential, and I also meant to make a detachable collar in fur (yes, fake fur!) that would also glam it up a bit.  I haven’t done that yet however, since every time I wear this coat I LOVE pulling a scarf out of my proverbial sleeve (you know, like a magician) & wrapping it around my scrawny neck all chic & elegant-like.  I almost feel like I’ve stepped into the 60s with neck scarf & leather gloves & the belted waist.

andy coat 1

So shall I tell more about the make & start by introducing the raw materials?  The fabric, the fabric!  I bought this a couple of years ago from a local fabric shop  with the specific intention of making it into a winter coat.  It was *one of those fabrics* that felt too good to use though & was kept protected from moths sealed up in a plastic bag in the drawer.  But then the Andy Coat woke me up & the fabric was released.  Whilst it is sooo gorgeous with its lovely mini checking & evocations of vintage granny coats, it was a b*gger to cut.  I cut each piece on the single thickness fabric trying to get alignment across the horizontals. I had thought about the vertical placement too, but thankfully this coat had no particular perpendicular challenges (feel like there should be a Peter Piper in that sentence!).  I attempted to match the shoulder seam verticals, which is passable.

andy coat

Why this check was super hard to match, both cutting & sewing was a. due to its scale & b. due to the difference between front & back.  It’s quite a loose weave & trying to follow the same horizontal when it looks different on both sides of the fabric was tricky – but not impossible.  I found the best way to speed up on this was to always use the same horizontal in the pattern as the stripe that I would match- that way I became familiar with what it looked like on the front & what it looked like from reverse.

andy coatStripe matching

But I tried really hard to get this perfect – this fabric was after all one of my sacred fabrics & I had to honour it.  You know every time I sew one of my “sacred fabrics” I take much more care & attention which makes me think that I should buy more expensive fabric to ensure that I sew at my best.  OK, I’d have less to sew, but maybe the discipline would be habit forming?

To complement the granny chic fabric I had bought some nice satin lining a while ago in Birmingham’s Rag Market in teal.  Not much more to say about it than that!  If I have a preference for lining I do like a nice shiny finish- all lovely & sleek to put your arms into.

Andy coatNo belt is a no no!

So the sewing – I made this in some unneeded fabric (yes, I made a toile).   I found I did need to take a small wedge, as is usual for me, out of the upper chest/ neck edge.  So that made the toile worthwhile.  I did not bother with roadtesting the pockets in the toile – I just made a complete coat with sleeves to check on the pattern fit.  If I was worried, I would have also used it to practise the welt pockets on, but I felt brazen!  I would sew welt pockets on the real McCoy & not before!

All the prep for this coat seemed to take longer because I accidentally bought sew in interfacing which meant basting it to every piece.  Yawn.  *Top tip*  I found out that due to the nature of the fabric, its loos-ish weave – I overlocked all the edges of each coat piece (before sewing) to avoid fraying even though it was lined.  Why not use the overlocking to attach sew in interfacing instead of basting?  (I also overlocked the lining edges too as lining is mad for fray).

Andy coat

I also felt it took a long time to progress into making the actual coat because I opted to make bound buttonholes.  You heard – bound buttonholes.  And yes, it was my choice – the pattern lets you off the hook & allows you to make keyhole buttonholes using your machine.

Bound buttonholesNinja buttonholes- just where are they?

I have to say I am extremely proud of my buttonholes.  All seven of them.   In fact I was so satisfied with cracking these babies that it felt wrong even thought there really was no smugness involved.  Do you delight in getting something so precise & technical right?  And what about to the power of 7?  All thanks, again, to Karen’s E-book.  I feel almost familiar enough with the process not to look anymore – but I know I will forget & need reminding each time I revisit bound buttonholes, because let’s face it, I am not going to be making coats & jackets every month now am I?

andy coat pocket

What about the pockets?  Welt pockets too!  I felt that these could not be as complex as bound buttonholes but that they might carry some of the same rationale & approach.  I had made some before on my cardigan, but that was a long time back & they were also a slightly different layout.  These welt pockets are on the tilt.  I used elephant fabric as my pocket bags to make them more durable than using satin lining.  But having finished them, you can’t see the pocket bag fabric.  My secret elephants.  A less than secret fabric confession is shown by my facings.  Are you ready?  Ok folks, I just did not know which side of the fabric I liked best to use as the *right side* & left it to chance after cutting my fronts.  Because this is not a symmetrical pattern, there is a definite left front & right front.  Cutting the front pieces determined which way up was the right way up  & I followed this for the rest of the cutting out.  A kind of game of chance, because I did not spend the time working it through before cutting the fronts.  But I still really liked the other side of the fabric so cut the facings so that they would be “wrong side” out.  So there you see, the very obvious confession, for the lifetime of this jacket!

andy coat

Once the bound buttonholes & the pockets had been completed the rest of the sew could speed up.  The coat has a centre back seam which provides some good shaping & the rest of the sew was as you’d expect.

andy coat

I think you’d have to feel reasonably confident at making a lined garment to make this pattern as the instructions are adequate, but expect you to know what you are doing.   I followed the general principles for bagging the lining & sewing as much by machine as possible by digging out the Spearmint coat instructions as they are extremely comprehensive & I like it that you use the lining sleeve as the location for turning the coat right way out as opposed to the hem.  Lolita patterns has been hosting a sewalong for the Spearmint coat – it would be a good place to get some tips!

andy coat

I made this jacket is a tad shorter than the original pattern, but it is a good length on me.  There are no belt loops to my relief – I find locating your true waist for belt loops quite stressful so am happy that this belt is a floater & that works for me.  Can you tell that there are shoulder pads?  They are not monstrous & give the right amount of structure.

buttons

Finally look at the buttons.  For some reason the tan/ horn was the only colour I could conceive.  In fact originally I was looking to use piping with this fabric (before I changed course & went Andy coat) & the piping would have been a similar tan in fake leather.  I don’t know if it’s overkill but I bought a second set of buttons to use on the facing side to give extra durability to the buttons (like they do on RTW).  And I sewed the buttons on with a match in between the button & the coat to provide a long enough shank for the button to sit on top of all of those thicknesses.  Goodness knows where that gem of ancient sewing wisdom came from, maybe while I was still being carried as a baby as my Mum sewed herself a coat?

andy coatWhy hello !

Anyway.  I am loving my jacket.  As always a garment that can be worn for work & play is a winner for me.  I have worn this multiple occasions to work now & at the weekend just gone took it with me as my weekend away jacket for it to get some sea views.  It looks equally happy (as long as it is belted up) with a sharp skirt for work as it does with my Jamie jeans.  That is one big wardrobe gap I have finally filled.  Hurrah for my jacket!  (I do need a Minoru though….but will I get round to making it this Spring?  Too may other things on my list?  )

And as for my next Named make…the choice!  I have already bought the Laurie Striped Tee though…

30 thoughts on “Yet another Named make: the Andy Coat

  1. Jennifer

    Oh what an amazing fabric and the perfect pattern to show it off. I’ve had the same experience with this pattern, I wasn’t immediately drawn to it, and was worried that collarless would look homemade, but I became more and more taken with it and now having mad it and worn it all winter absolutely love it. With a scarf there’s nothing missing. My fabric was double face and after much vacillating I chose the reverse color for the facings. I like leaving them a bit open for contrast. I’m definitely a Named groupie, I’ve lost count of what I’ve made but if there’s a title to be had there you’ll have to fight me for it! About the only difference I can report is belts just don’t work for me. I made it but as expected have never worn it. My fabric may be a little firmer though, so it doesn’t really cinch well. Beautiful coat!

    Reply
    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      That is so interesting that you also chose the reverse for the facings as well! And now it’s warmed up a bit I too am leaving the facings open a bit more these days. I am not surprised I am not the only Named groupie! But it’s good to hear from fellow enthusiasts!!!
      Thank you for sharing your Andy Coat experience 🙂

      Reply
  2. Annette

    Beautiful fabric. No wonder it was one of your sacred. This coat is a great length. I’ve noticed that the Named patterns grow on Me as well. However, I have only made the Jamie jeans so far.

    Reply
  3. gill

    Oh, well done – marvellous coat and I have to say bowled over by the bloody brilliant, beautifully bound buttonholes (I thought I’d follow the whole alliteration theme).
    I remembered the matchstick trick too – maybe its one of those little things we know instinctively from birth, like breathing etc?

    Reply
  4. sam

    Wow, that is some seriously spectacular stripe matching Winnie, and the bound buttonholes are pretty fabulous too. I know exactly what you mean about being more careful with “special” fabric, I am exactly the same.

    Reply
  5. Eliza-sew-little

    Beautiful!! Guess whats on my sewing table. A coat in tartan with elephant lining. Great minds think alike or…
    But your pattern matching looks fab and a lot to live up to.
    You’ve inspired me to try bound button holes, I was dithering.
    I’ll email you a work in progress shot.

    Reply
  6. Lady Stitcher

    Wow, this is fabulous! The fabric is perfect for it, it really accentuates Andy’s 60s style. And your finishing techniques add a super special something. Great coat! 🙂

    Reply
  7. Shar

    I have this pattern but haven’t made it yet so it’s so nice to see your version. I love it! The fabric is gorgeous and your pattern matching looks terrific! I may have to borrow your idea of a faux fur collar when I get around to this. Great call on the shorter length too. I’m also a Named groupie. I’ve made the Jamie Jeans and the Dakota dress and I have this pattern as well as the Alpi Chinos waiting to be made up.

    Reply
  8. Rachel

    This is fantastic! I love everything about it: fabric, facings (s), style, bound buttons. Love it all! Enjoy wearing it – it suits you so well. Rachel ☺

    Reply
  9. Kerry

    The details really elevate this coat- a real pleasure to see them all close up and appreciate the work too

    Reply
  10. LinB

    This lovely garment should serve as a reminder to us all that simple, basic shapes are the most versatile in anyone’s wardrobe. Choice of color, fabric pattern, details of finishing are what make the clothes individual to each of us. I like to sew things that have a tricky detail or two; I like to wear simple shapes.

    Your pledge to buy and sew only gorgeous fabrics is a noble one. I hope you can follow through, but just in case you revert to Cheap and Quick “Crack” Sewing habits, here’s a simple way to handle buttonholes on any garment: Face the holes. Cut a shape that complements your fabric, sew a buttonhole-ish shape in it, after placing the shape right-side to wrong-side back of buttonhole band (or where ever). Cut the hole ( I prefer a slot or thin rectangle, but whatever) and push the facing through to the right side. Now, your hole has no raw edges showing! You can now baste and sew the facing edges as you please. You can satin-stitch the edges, you can sew around the shape through all thicknesses and leave facing edges raw to fray at will, you can pink the edges, or blanket-stitch them, or button-hole stitch them. You can turn edges under and slip-stitch them invisibly. This is a good application for reversible garments, because you get a clean finish on one side and a funky bohemian finish on the other.

    Reply
  11. Stevie

    That coat is divine! You are so clever doing those buttons that was an inspired idea. The Andy coat was something i’d been lusting over but i’d not seen enough versions to make me buy it. I’m dreaming of one in pumpkin coloured wool,
    Also, the fabric rocks. That is all…

    Reply
  12. Joy

    It’s a beautiful fabric which is great for this streamlined pattern. Now that you mention it, I can see the potential for going collarless. And beltloopless is good too, except for when the belt goes missing in your coat closet. *cough cough*

    Reply
  13. caroline

    Hi, I’ve been following your blog for ever, but finally had to say hello and comment on your fabulous coat.So beautifully executed, especially those buttonholes .I’ve always been nervous about ruining a jacket by making a mess of the collar, so it’s liberating to see how well collarless works, plus the opportunity to use my vast collection of scarves, which mostly just sit in the drawer.
    I too think it looks great beltless, and fab with the tie belt, and I can also see it belted with a soft tan leather belt for a different look.
    I’ve been stuck in hospital for ages, and just wanted you to know that any day there’s a new post on your blog is a highlight day for me .
    (no pressure there then 🙂 !!!)

    Reply
    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Caroline, that’s so kind of you to say that! ANd it spurred me on to write the next blog post!!
      I feel honoured to be part of your hospital recovery reading.
      Really glad that I’ve given you ideas for your coat when you get chance to make your own! A big thank you

      Reply
  14. Amanda

    Oh, I just LOVE this pattern!! Yours turned out terrific!! I wasn’t sure about whether I would want a collarless jacket but you make a VERY good point about scarves… I wear them all the time, and how nice to not have a collar getting in the way of your scarviness! 😀

    Reply
  15. Alessa

    Wow, you put a lot of work into this coat and it shows! I love the little details like the double buttons, wrong-side facings and those perfect button holes! And what a lovely fabríc, too… 🙂

    Reply
  16. Kate McCarthy

    i have come out of lurkdom to comment on this post. Your jacket is amazing, especially the ninja buttonholes! I love, love, love that fabric. Wish I could buy some. Kate

    Reply
  17. Margaret Postings

    I have got this pattern and have been humming an hawing about making it. You have helped me make up my mind . yours looks fab . I wasn’t going to do bound buttonholes -I have done tailoring – but it’s been a long time!!! Maybe I’ll have a go. thanks for enthusing me
    Margaret

    Reply

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