Finally, a chance to talk trousers (not pants, I think I’ve exhausted all my current thoughts on underwear for a while)
The mission: make some trousers that fit, like much better than before. Like trousers suitable for work. Not necessarily wide legged trews, just some basics to work on the fit. I’ve changed shape over the last few months, & add that to the “poorly fitting anyway ” recipe, of which another ingredient was “never really knew what well-fitting trousers felt like” & this is where I started:
These originate from New Look 6190
I made them a few years ago, and I like the pattern, having had a previous success with it. Whilst I could have made another pair from my Built By Wendy pattern I opted to see how better fitting this one would fare. Armed with “Pants for Real People” I followed Marta Alto and Pati Palmer’s advice & tissue fitted my pattern. It was a while ago now & I am struggling to remember what it threw up. I do remember the weirdness of wearing one tissue trouser leg! It did help though, as I was able to diagnose what to do with a whole load of excess fabric across the back width (it was pooling underneath my whoopie pies – can you tell from the first photo above?) . This is what was required, taking quite a large vertical pleat out of the whole back leg.
Tissue fitting also helped me to see that I needed to shape the very top of the pattern differently so that it sat better over the line of my hips. I also tissue fitted the yoke to get some kind of idea before I sewed it whether there were any obvious adjustments needed & that helped too. Just because I thought it might be easier, I made them with a centre back zip – is that wrong? I’ve had culottes with centre back zip, what’s the thing with trousers? Is it OK to have a zip up the back & not the side or front?
So this is them almost finished. I used some rather nice navy blend (of something? with lycra!) that has an unexpected drape bonus & a herringbone weave. I faced the yoke with polka dots, added belt loops with sailor buttons for some class:
But why were they almost finished? I wore them to work at least three of four times.
No, it was nothing to do with not having the right underwear (oh gosh, am I becoming fixated?!) No, actually they were still too big & everytime I wore them I would catch myself standing at the printer grasping inches at the back of my waist. It was no good, I had to get them fitting better, the zip had to be reset, the yoke unpicked & resewn again. Eventually I got around to it. (And this is the truth behind why it has taken me so long to blog about them, y’see)
Nipped in about an extra inch or so they feel like they hang in the right place now (apols about the post-work creasing). Trouble is the back is not “perfect”, it can be semi-remedied by a hook & eye (not yet added)
But hands up, I was rather lazy….I just took the wedge out of the top of the centre back & the line of the yoke isn’t as neat as it should be (V.P.L photo looks a whole lot better if you can get past the screaming knicker line). But. It’s behind me. They were a “wearable muslin”. I am now making a Thurlow shorts muslin….& the fit on them is looking very promising…..& this pattern should fit me next time, & add a bit to the width & I’ve some cool wide-legged trousers! So maybe I’ll be wearing trousers a lot more in the future….
Have you tried tissue fitting? How did you find it? And are you joining in the Thurlow sewalong with LLadybird?