I need to reveal the finished red trousers, but have yet to take photos. Thank you to everyone for your input into how to improve the fit & how to live with the current fit! It really was so kind of you to leave your thoughts – always valued.
Anyway, I thought I’d share some scallop sewing that I’ve been doing lately, just to show I have not been an idle badger. However, please note these are my bunglings & there are probably even better ways for drafting and sewing scallops. If you have ways to improve, please share in the comments!!
Inspired/ spurred on by the delicious Meringue skirt & other sources of inspiration already discussed here I launched into new scallop territory for me. No F.O.s to show I am afraid, just some of the process. I tried to design my own scallop edges & facings you see, that’s new for me (which is why it’s not perfect, ahem…)
I’ve been “nearly there” for ages on these, but the fit needed jiggling & I got distracted by other things. I’d been hankering after a wearable pair of shorts, but not too short & brainwaved culottes again, Butterick 5681 – I mean when are culottes not shorts?
OK, culottes are not shorts when they are below the knee perhaps? For this particular escapade I used the plain culottes with the yoke & side zip (view C). None of the fancy inner leg pleating this time. Now who can forget Kristen’s brunch shorts? Thank you Kristen for the inspiration, I haven’t downright copied…..but channeled some of the scallop loving into a longer pair, to ultimately bare less thigh….
Apols about the grainy phone pic, it must have been poor light when I took this. But you can get the drift of my attempt to draw scallops using my French Curve on the shorts’ hem & then create a template for the facing. I tried to get the scallop “lumps” with a 5/8″ seam allowance to integrate flawlessly at each side & inner leg seam, but sadly it did not happen on all seams. A badger bodge has been executed, so it is “OK” & learnings for next time about curves/ alignment / seam allowances etc….
Making them up was very much like the Meringue once the shorts had been constructed at side & inner leg seams. I joined the front & back facings & then attached the facing at the scalloped edge with small stitch length. After trimming, clipping, notching & pressing, the facing is then hemmed into place.
They will eventually look like this, but a bit smaller. Yes, sadly the fit on these culottes, unlike the other pair I made, involved countless (yes crotch & inner leg you name it) alterations, with a final revelation that it was the waist that was the problem. I hope to finish them (a second time) soon. The fabric & the rick rack are the same as used on my Cambie dress. This is what the yoke will look like (once I have completely taken it apart, re sewn the side seams, tacked the rick rack back on as piping, & attached yoke to the culottes, reinstalling zip, attaching & securing facing). Gosh it’s a long mistake to correct!
And whilst I am on the subject of scallops, I’ve also recently (last weekend in fact) applied a little curvaceous magic to a much used pattern….
You got it! Another Violet blouse! And yes that is some dreamy dobby swiss dot fine fabric. I’ve actually finished it & worn it now, but it is in the laundry.
Design thoughts for this – fine & floaty with no underlining as I would wear it with a cotton camisole. I wanted a scalloped right front with a curve around each button. I took the tissue pattern & traced a facing, capturing all of the markings from the original pattern. I then constructed scallops using my French curve around the buttonhole placement. To draw the scallops I compromised on the original garment’s seam allowances, with the curviest part of the scallop 1/8″ from the cut edge, but the most inner point between the scallops coming in to meet the centre front. The Violet doesn’t have a massive overlap, so I needed to make sure it still would overlap properly. I traced my drawn curves (which became my stitching line) with dressmaker’s carbon & a tracing wheel & I have to say it was genius to have a line to follow stitching.
What was less than genius is that the yellow still shows through the uber fine swiss dot, even though it is marked on the wrong side. Aaargh!! Any ideas of how to remove it? It must be wax paper I think. Another thing I’d not figured on was that the seam allowances & facings would also “show”. Whilst it isn’t really a problem, another thing that I had to be careful with was the trimming of the seam allowances inside the scallops as they too show through the very fine fabric. I know I have not shown you yet, but take it from me, only parts of this blouse have turned out to be as sheer & floaty as I had envisaged. But it’s OK. Just want to get the yellow gone….any suggestions truly welcomed!!
I promise to show it in its finished state once it is through the wash & hopefully without yellow edging!!