After a sustained period of
being an emotional wreck preparing for and helping my youngest bird to fly the nest, I am nearly back on the ball. Sad to say I have not had much time to blog, visit blogs let alone leave comments. But I will soon. After this weekend. In the meantime I have specially delayed my trip to Cornwall to get something off my chest. My Vintage Vogue jacket of course! How many times have I worn it (with all manner of colour & pattern variations) without having concluded its blog presence?
I will sprinkle some of my Self Stitched outfits through this post to illustrate it surprising versatility.
Where did I leave off? I think it was having finished the bound buttonholes. Well, after that it was pretty swift sewing. I tried, as per instructions, to make little shoulder pad things using cotton batting instead of lambswool. But didn’t use them. Try as I might, I couldn’t for the life of me work out why the instructions required their placement in the sleeve head, not on the shoulders at all. By my reckoning they weren’t essential, & so in the bin they went.
Onto sewing the lining, I was also not in favour of following the pattern instructions. These instructions, according to my sewing guru Mum, take you through lining the proper way – ie lots of hand sewing & I mean lots. Too much for me. The lining front & back would have been sewn & attached to the main fabric. The sleeves would then have been attached & hand sewn in. I was also stumped around what was intended for attaching the shell hem – involving some bias interfacing attached to the inside of the shell fabric at the hemline. Not for me! I therefore undertook some research on alternatives.
I looked at the Built By Wendy method (from the Jackets and Coats book). The lining appeared to be added in with jacket hemmed – but I didn’t want any hemming to vaguely show on the outside, so I surfed. And as with all surfing for sewing techniques it was the Threads website that came up tops. “Bagging” your lining looked like it was up my street.
A word of warning – read through to the end of the article before making a start! Read the article rather than my briefest of summaries. Order of sewing is essentially:
- Make the lining up , darts & pleats as instructed but leave a gap in one of the side seams but attach sleeves.
- Attach the lining to the edge of the jacket around front facing, neck edge, hem- sort of all in one go, right side of shell to wrong side of lining. Some tweaking is needed for where the the front facing meets the hem.
- Turn through the gap in the side seam.
- Then reverse engineer the sleeves to sew the sleeve hems (can you guess I tried this before turning through the side seam gap!) Read the article on how to do it – I will only get tongue tied!
- I found that my hem sagged a bit, not sure how to keep it following the press line. In the end I made tiny little single stitches in the hem at strategic points to keep the hem in place without showing.
As you can see from the photo above I cycled in this which was quite brave on a number of counts. First – would the stretching over handle bars bust a seam (in the lining, or worse in the jacket itself?) No realisation of fears there – there is ample room for movement with all the interior pleats & it is a roomy jacket. However, I was foolish wearing it cycling on a wet day, on a canal towpath …
Oh yes, my bike does not have mudguards. The jacket didn’t shrink in the wet either. It really has been worn a lot. I have felt it’s very bright though. I am totally self conscious whenever I wear it. I would only be more self conscious if it looked more formal and am relieved it’s cotton & not uber starched.
You’ve also seen it with my Rooibos dress, but what about the Happy Denim Shirtdress?
To sum up, I learnt alot making this jacket. Lots of techniques (bagging a lining, bound button holes, not making shoulder pads out of cotton batting, underlining). I forgot to use piping #sigh#. In terms of fabric choices I think that I should have realised how flashy it would be – it is bright red with white stripes after all!! The lining, being cotton isn’t a smooth & silky “slip your arm in there” jacket experience, & as a consequence longer sleeves bunch up a bit, & perhaps there isn’t as much weight to the jacket as there could be. However, it was always meant to be a summer weight blazer, & I think it’s succeeded. I just need to change those Miss Ellie trousers, but that’s for another post!
I must away! Cornwall calls me!! Have a great weekend everyone, xxx