Vintage Vogue Jacket: I may be some time

Thank you one & all for your wonderful comments to my last post flapping about in the sea dressed in my frilly sundress, it’s wonderful to get feedback & hear from anyone interested enough to read my blog!  Later this week, mark my words, I have a giveaway planned …

But onto today.  In last post’s comments there was resounding support for me to make the Vintage Vogue 1695 “Easy to Make” jacket.

Vintage vogue pattern


It is lined, and looks beautifully shaped , but note it says on the front “Easy to Make“- see that means it should be OK for a jacket novice like myself.  I’m making it out of this red striped cotton, as a sort of summery jacket that hopefully gets used in Spring & early Autumn.  Being red it should coordinate with my blue, red & purple tendencies.

The fabric came from Goldhawk Road during the notorious Fabric Fandango organised by Karen. It’s a mid weight cotton with that lovely woven stripe.  It’s got a bit of give in it too.  I’m lining it in deep emerald green cotton, & am adding plain red piping to the collar & maybe the pockets.  Will I look a tad “Henley”? That is the danger I suppose.  Button choice is critical!

Having committed myself to making this before the Rooibos sewalong gets underway, I had only managed to read the instructions (several times), nothing else this last week.  But horror of horrors!  My eyes did not need to travel very far down the first page, first column to find my first challenge  (step 5)

Vogue jacket instructions“Make Bound Buttonholes in right FRONT between squares”.  Yeah, just like that.  I will just make three bound buttonholes.  Easy.  OK.  So that is going to be one challenge, out will come Vogue Sewing & more time researching on the internet for tips.  This jacket though also involves underlining (never done before), lining & piping.  Ye gods.  How long will it take?

Now you will understand why the idea of making a muslin did not appear at all attractive.  “Do I have to ?” I whined to myself?  “No” my calm motherly inner being said, you shall try tissue fitting.  So I looked it up & found Gertie’s videos on YouTube & watched them while I cut out my paper pattern pieces.    It seemed to be successful, I checked out shoulder placement, armholes, dart placement & general look (as much as you can wearing fragile brown tissue).  I’m just making a sway back adjustment, but going with the pattern as it is apart from that.

I also had to read up on underlining – did I really need it?  There was a really helpful article on Threads that helped me decide to go for it: it’ll add a bit more weight to my red stripe, but by choosing to use a lightweight polycotton it should still stay light weight.  Plus, I should embrace the learning.

So last night I spent ?how long? Um, 3 hours (listening on the iPlayer radio to some detective stories) cutting out lining, cutting underlining then cutting the stripes.  I have tried to match the stripes in the shoulder seams – took some brainpower.

Vogue 1695 Vintage blazer pattern

So challenges this pattern:

  • Matching stripes on shoulder seam
  • Underlining
  • Bound button holes
  • Piping the collar & maybe pockets
  • Lining
  • Not looking like a Hooray
It’ll be worth it though, won’t it?  Hope your week goes well, check in later on for the long promised giveaway ….


28 thoughts on “Vintage Vogue Jacket: I may be some time

  1. Hatty

    On the bound buttonholes, instead of the various tutorials on bound buttonholes which I also have tried and found very very fiddly and not something I would like to repeat. I won’t specify all the names but I tried four different ways….so instead of them look up Kathleen Fasanella’s tutelage on double welt pockets on Fashion Incubator. No fiddling about with multiple pieces of bias/ribbon, etc. You use one piece of fabric and a pressing jig. Obviously for buttonholes you would have to alter the measurements, but bound buttonholes and double welt pockets are exactly the same structure, just different sizes. If you look at the ones you see on amateurs’ blogs they are invariably great big fat and clunky looking things. Bound buttonholes are not supposed to be like that!

    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Hatty, thank you for the tip! I shall definitely follow it up as you know me, after the easiest option, & if you’ve done all the trial & error, hopefully I can benefit from that too! Thank you

  2. Debi

    easy peasy! ha! I love how patterns but ‘easy to make’ on the front but then have lots of steps!! It will be FABULOUS! I really love the fabric you choose. I’ve never done bound buttonholes either but I think it’s pretty straight forward if you have a stable fabric (I tried to do it in a looseweave knit for my first time..hahahha. silly me). This jacket will be so much fun!

  3. Sigrid

    Don’t you just love the vintage idea of “easy to make” ? It makes me quiver in fear for what was considered “difficult.” Anyway, I can’t wait to see how it turns out.

  4. Jane

    Go for it! If anybody can perfect bound buttonholes it’s you Winnie. I must admit I’ve always chickened out before now and put in normal ones instead. I’ll be intrigued to see how you get on. It’s a lovely fitted jacket though and will look SSSOOO flattering on you. I bought the Built by Wendy coat book and have been reading up on lining etc, I think I’ll bite the bullet with a jacket in the autumn. x
    PS. I love that you listen to detective stories whilst pattern cutting! X

  5. Debbie

    Wow, it looks complex but I am sure you can tackle it in little steps! I remmeber my mum always telling me Vogue patterns were complex, maybe she was right! I am looking forward to seeing how you get on. xx

  6. Kerry

    I think your jacket will look really smart, not Hooray at all 🙂 And you can definitely do all those things you listed – it’s probably matching stripes that intimidates me most!

  7. Magpie Mimi

    Good Luck! Looks like you’ve got a good challenge ahead of you that when done you’ll feel like you’ve conquered the world! There are gadgets out there to help you make bound button holes and Casey from Casey’s Elegant Musings has a giveaway to win one, so go over and grab it! I’ve entered so if I get it you can borrow it and let me know how it works! hahaha! 🙂

  8. Lynne

    Good luck with the rest of it! It does seem quite complicated, but you’ll be grand! Thank you for the link to Gertie’s youtube videos. I didn’t know about those. 🙂

    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Thank you Lynne & Tamsin, fingers crossed!
      Gertie’s got a few videos- they’re really helpful (& isn’t it funny to hear someone’s voice when you usually follow their written word?!)

  9. Amy

    I’m so excited for you! I think many of us (me included!) tend to skip over these more challenging projects in favor of instant gratification (or nearly so). Sometimes those easy things are just right, but sometimes, we need to stretch and learn new things. This is going to be one of those things you’re going to be extra proud of when it’s all over. All that effort=greater pride!

  10. Allison

    I know they seem scary – the diagrams used to intimidate the hell out of me, but bound button holes actually aren’t all that hard once you’ve done one. Basically, you are putting two pieces of fabric right sides together, sewing a rectangle, cutting out the hole, flipping the first piece through and then tacking it down. Some people add lips to make it look pretty, but its still not all that bad.

    Can’t wait to see it when its done!!

    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Thanks Allison, I vaguely remembering having tried one of those welt pockets years back (dinosaurs were still roaming, that’s how long ago), but that it’s three & they all need to look the same …. I’ll try not to stress!

  11. Tilly

    You have a challenge on your hands, yes – but think how great you’ll feel as you accomplish each new technique! Yay! I’ll be following your progress (feeling guilty for not yet trying bound buttonholes)…x

  12. Carolyn

    Hehe, it doesn’t sound particularly “easy” but I’ve seen your work. I’m sure a seamstress of your abilities will breeze through this!
    And I think your fabric is divine, and green lining sounds gorgeous! I can hardly wait to see it!

  13. Zoe

    Hi Winnie!!!!! This jacket is going to be fabulous and a total wardrobe staple, I can feel it in my waters! Glad you were inspired by my shirt halter, I would like nothing more than to see you put your spin on the concept and refashion those shirts you have. As they are ladies ones, maybe you’d be best to make it fitted at the back with a zip or button closure rather than the loose/shirred thing I did, which really needs a fair bit of fabric.

    I’ve recently finished another shirt refashion that I’ll blog about over the next couple of weeks that might also provide you a bit of inspiration.

    Happy stitching lovely lady, hope you are having summer fun in Bath
    Zoe xxx

    1. scruffybadgertime Post author

      Oooh Zoe, thank you & can’t wait to see your next shirt refashion. Thank you for the tips on what I may need to do with ladies shirts – having less fabric – it’s funny I’m kind of itching to cut one up & refashion a shirt rather than start basting my underlining! I need to focus, don’t I?
      And get sewing …….xx

  14. Christine

    Mrs. Scruffybadger, I am completely confident that you will master bound buttonholes and come up with perfect buttons to go with them. I can’t wait to see it! Happy sewing.


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