Well hello ! At last I have something to show you which means a winning formula of having completed my sewing plus engineered the opportunity to to take my snaps. So you saw I have been making the Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut patterns, supplied very kindly by Susan of Sewbox. I have been coveting a blazer for some time & when I settled on the Bellatrix I did not appreciate what a lovely design it was until I started sewing, and in my recent post about welt pockets I think I waxed lyrical about how it has been designed brilliantly with a lovely cut that also makes it a great first taste of welt pocket sewing – the shaping is created by princess seams & upper bodice and lower bodice piecing so that the welt pockets are inserted at this waist seam. Sewing adventures!
It has a long collar with a curved edge – so special. To achieve the contrast collar you need to plan your front facing to be cut out of your collar fabric- it is all one piece.
I was using some reversible fabric which is great because I knew the contrast would work & be the right weight & colour tone. It meant that I used the reverse side of the fabric for all of the facing pieces so my jacket has a pinkish lining (with polka dot satin) and the grey outer,
I am in love with the style – it’s almost got a peplum, but barely.
It is a snug fit, mind you. And I haven’t quite got around to sort the buttons out. So I am holding the edges together in the first pic with good reason. I had a slight problem. The instructions are printed on the paper pattern and you cut them out to make a book – it comes in a few fold-constructed pieces that should be glued together (but of course I didn’t get around to that). Because I am camping sewing & have a few bags that I am using to pack away my sewing after each sitting, I seemed to have misplaced the last part of the instructions ….& so felt my way through the last part of making up my jacket (attaching the lining & adding buttonholes). And when I came to try on, the waist is very small on me- probably quite rightly, but there is no room for your usual overlap that one button and one buttonhole needs. But I wasnt able to reference the instructions to see if my approach is the right one – I think this needs a double buttonhole approach-barely joined together so that the fronts meet at the centre- by a pair of buttons attached to each other with some ribbon or some elastic. I havent bought a pair of buttons to tell you how it works, as I wouldn’t wear it like that. I wear this unbuttoned. But do you understand what I mean?
And the welt pockets are a decent size….not purely decorative.
I did make my interior welt pocket and might explain my understanding of welt pockets at some point. maybe. It meant that I was able to design & sew my own with a satisfying degree of accuracy.
That pocket has not been road tested however and I placed it at the widest part of the front facing, however it is just a weeny bit high up the body, but apart from that I’m very pleased.
In the end I used Lladybird’s classic welt pocket tutorial to steer my sewing of this welt pocket- it really is so simple, & despite trying to follow the David Coffin article in this month’s Seamwork it acted as inspiration as I work better with step by step photos. Hurrah! Let’s see how they perform in the wild as there were so many comments in my last post about why women’s jackets do not always have inside pockets …
Fit? As already mentioned it is a snug fit- I made the lining up as a toile to gauge what adjustments I needed (decided upon shoulder pads- an optional ). Considering I have less access to mirrors at the moment, it’s not too bad at the back is it? OK, not perfect but I am not sure how much I would have detected & been able to change – I find the back such a tricky body part!! I think if anything I could have taken out a little as a sway back looking at these pics carefully. But when I’m wearing it I can live with it. Incidentally I did lengthen the sleeves as there is nothing I hate more than cold wrists …
I found the instructions I used very easy to follow & the construction went well, with easy to match princess seams, markings in the right place for sewing the collar/ shoulder. As I couldn’t find the last part of the instructions I remembered that the Spearmint coat sewalong has a great method for bagging the lining and sewing by machine, but the Bellatrix blazer is simpler to line than the Spearmint coat, & didn’t need all the steps, however it was the video on three dresses blog explaining the steps for sewing the sleeve linings by machine that was invaluable, avoiding Gordian knots of sleeves & linings…
The worst thing is that I have hardly anything with me at the moment to wear this jacket with – the few skirts & trousers I have with me just don’t work with it so it is currently awaiting a jeans-out night. That I think is all that I have – I can’t wait to see what it’ll look good with from my wider winter wardrobe when it comes out of storage.
You see this is a warmish jacket – the fabric has some wool/ acrylic content & with all pieces (except the satin lining) being interfaced, it has some weight to it. It has potential to be worn a lot this time of the year …..
Thank you for reading x